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Tried to remove a Volvo Duoprop last night. Thing won't budge. Got the manual, did everything by the book except since it's under a swim platform we didn't hang it from above, just blocked it under the skeg. Even tried using the trim rams to try and break it loose and nothing.
Volvos have an oil dipstick on the top of the drive that the manual says to use an eyebolt and hang it from there. I'm thinking we need to hook up some straps to a truck and try and yank it. Whadya think?
Never pulled a Volvo but I've had a Bravo hang up due to the alignment being way off. It will lock the splines in the coupler. Had to raise the motor to get it to free up. How many hours and how long since it was last removed? Salt or freshwater? I would not use a truck to pull it free.
'04, never been removed, fresh and salt.
I was kinda half kidding about the truck. :D There's just no way to get any leverage to pull it back.
The motor has to come out too so maybe we'll just do it that way. Just trying to make the engine removal a little cleaner/easier.
It could be a combination of cooked/dried up grease between the driveshaft and coupler splines and corrosion from saltwater use. The stainless studs may be corroded around the aluminum housing of the drive. The driveshaft may also be locked into the gimbal bearing. Have you tried setting a 2 x 4 on the bullet and giving it a gentle whack with a sledge? I always pull my drive using a homemade drive "cart" that slides under the drive and supports it from underneath the anti-cavitation plate. There have been times where it take two guys grabbing the drive and yanking back and forth like hell to get them to break free. Other times they fall off when you loosen the last bolt!
Haven't whacked it on the lower, tried a few times shaking like hell. About the only movement we got was with what I call "outdrive accupunture"....wedging in screwdrivers along the mating surface; it looke pretty funny with 3-4 screwdrivers on each side. Barely got maybe 1/16" clearance at the bottom but nothing up top.
take a video of this!! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by sledge
Whack the shaft on the inside of the boat - it's probably stuck in the coupler....
have the fattest guy you can find stand on the rear of the drive, then push the trim button up while he's hoppin up and down on it. ;)
Be sure to disconnect the morse shift cable under the front cap...
Interesting and curious as to the replies! Twice I have been nailed for extra labor because a portapower had to be used to remove my drive. The last was a 3-4 year old boat.
Is this normal???
Well, a small bottle jack placed horizontally between the transom and a bolt in the factory lift location....did nothing but bend the 1/2-13 bolt.
Looks like the screwdriver/accupuncture method is going to be tried again. I'd love to know how the portapower was used. :D
Drives are supposed to be removed every season for service. If it is serviced regularly they don't get stuck.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pachanga
Mercruisers have steel yokes and aluminum couplers. The Volvos used to have steel to steel. Good luck with that once they have rusted together.
I once had a #3 stuck in the trannie. Steel to steel bond. Ended up removing the tail shaft assembly from the trannie.
We've used air hammers to get 'em loose before by having someone pull on the drive while shakin the chit out of the shaft inside the hull with the air hammer.
a little C4 should do it... Chris probably has some laying around.
A bunch of screwdrivers, a little bottle of Jack, I mean bottle jack, a few hate taps from the rubber mallet and it's hanging on the studs.
Nothing a little corrosion blocker wouldn't have prevented if it was sprayed on during assembly....
I have a drive that I KNOW is going to be a betch to pull off that I am going to hook a winch to the top lifting eye and pull it with that.
TRS on the 311? :D You still need to share more pics of that bad boy.
Only thing I can recommend, is find the best corrosion remover/liquid wrench product. Take off the nuts from the studs and spray that stuff on there. Give yourself days and days to spray it, let it soak, spray it more, let it soak. The longer the better.
The worst thing is the corrosion between the stainless studs and aluminum housing. You can see in the picture how it swells and holds on to the drive.
for a drive stuck in the coupler, try bumping the motor over with the starter while pulling/prying/cussing. Make absolutely sure the prop is off when doing this as it will go into gear as the drive comes off.
Arnold says, "Eat more Carrots!"
loosen the bolts about 1/4 inch , spray with p.b. blaster put in the water and run it until the drive backs up to the bolts. ????? i know some of you are laughing!! it worked? a dam teanager watching us came up with this idea, after a DAY you will try anything?
i had this problem on a cobra before. i had to cut the driveshaft and replace the coupler and drive shaft. i tried everything you have suggested to no avail! bring out the sawzall