Joe Gibbs Oil

[2112]

OK guys, what does anyone know about this oil. It has a lot of hard core race teams (not marine that I know of) using it.

They claim to have huge ZDDP content and formulate it (ZDDP) based on your operating temps among other things such as RPM, HP big or small block and type of racing. These are not formulated for street use.

Any opinions out there for Marine use?

http://www.joegibbsracingoil.com/

XP 6 is wnat I am looking at due to temperatures formulated for.

Very expensive BTW :ack2:

[skaterdave]

why whats the temp rating gotta do with your boat. most of the offshore boats or hi-perf boats seem to have trouble making oil and water temp?

[2112]

I run oil thermostats and closed cooling so I never have a low temp problem. I hang @ about 220 but can spike up to 270-280 on long WOT runs. I am making some rigging changes now to improve my Teague Oil Cooler's efficiency now but am still interested in using the best oil for my application.

I have been using V-Twin and am planning to try Amsoil. I was tipped off to the Gibbs products by my cylinder head specialist.
.

[skaterdave]

the full synthetics are just too expense. i've run amsoil and torco in a hi compression 355 race motor, both are good and i had no problems. i also used synthetics in our offshore race boat. but when you run a 5 gallon dry sump tank it gets costly. the engine builder i use said that i was wasting my money and he recommends brad penn 20-50 race oil. its less than half of the others. plus i would rather change the oil more often so as to keep an eye on it. using the brad penn i can change the oil twice and still spend less than the asmoil for one change.

plus 280 degrees is ok, over 300 is when problems start!

nothing against gibbs, but i doubt he produces the oil, he's just repackaging some one elses stuff with his name on it, so why pay for bush to drive a toyota and act like an a-hole?

plus the only way to know if there's a benefit is to send your oil out and do an oil analyisis

[2112]

nothing against gibbs, but i doubt he produces the oil, he's just repackaging some one elses stuff with his name on it,

I agree, I heard it is made by "Lubrizol" though I don't know of them.



so why pay for bush to drive a toyota and act like an a-hole?

Damn good point :sifone:



plus the only way to know if there's a benefit is to send your oil out and do an oil analyisis

And what would I be checking for? contaminants? Breakdown?

I am changing oil every 20 hours (6 gallons per change) and filters every 10. I cut my filters open and scan with a magnet. It is expensive but my engines weren't cheap. :ack2:
.

[07DominatorSS]

the full synthetics are just too expense. i've run amsoil and torco in a hi compression 355 race motor, both are good and i had no problems. i also used synthetics in our offshore race boat. but when you run a 5 gallon dry sump tank it gets costly. the engine builder i use said that i was wasting my money and he recommends brad penn 20-50 race oil. its less than half of the others. plus i would rather change the oil more often so as to keep an eye on it. using the brad penn i can change the oil twice and still spend less than the asmoil for one change.

plus 280 degrees is ok, over 300 is when problems start!

nothing against gibbs, but i doubt he produces the oil, he's just repackaging some one elses stuff with his name on it, so why pay for bush to drive a toyota and act like an a-hole?

plus the only way to know if there's a benefit is to send your oil out and do an oil analyisis

"the full synthetics are too expensive".............hmmmmmmm you've probably got a boat that cost $150000 or more, plus truck, maybe some toys, and you're *****ing about a few dollars more, for a far superior product to petroleums? Guys like you make me laugh. As far as I'm concerned, I'm going to put the best product in my boat that I can find, cost doesn't matter. You do make one good point, use oil analysis, that is the only way to know if your oil is good or not. My AMSOIL 20w-50 Racing Oil, with 53 hours from last year, was still good to use, cleaner and stronger than Merc 25w-40 out of the bottle. I still change once a season, however.

[J-Bonz]

I agree, I heard it is made by "Lubrizol" though I don't know of them.


Ding ding, Winner winner chicken dinner. You are correct. Lubrizol makes many of the additives that go into varioius off the shelf oils. Althought they are one of the largest additive company out there, you will not find there name on any product. I beleive there biggest competitor is Mobil, which has an additive division.
FYI. They have been working with Joe Gibbs since roughly 1995.....
Jr.

[2112]

OK, We have worked through a few issues here :willy_nilly:

So anybody know if the Gibbs brand (Lubrizol) stuff lives up to their claims? :bigear:

It is nearly 50% more $ than the two brands I would trust (mobil and amsoil).
.

[J-Bonz]

2112.,
Honestly, I know the product & the company but, I will be honest, I dont know how good it would be in a offshore application. I wish I would have found out. We all know that ZDDP is important. But, the base oill is just important.............. Sweet crude, that makes the best base. It comes from the countries that we have guns pointing at........ Anyways, I have some good pics of your boat at the factory in Opa Locka... I should scan them in and post. It was the coolest cig I saw there!!!

[showtime83]

my engine guy recommended that i run joe gibbs oil in my engines.

[skaterdave]

"the full synthetics are too expensive".............hmmmmmmm you've probably got a boat that cost $150000 or more, plus truck, maybe some toys, and you're *****ing about a few dollars more, for a far superior product to petroleums? Guys like you make me laugh. As far as I'm concerned, I'm going to put the best product in my boat that I can find, cost doesn't matter. You do make one good point, use oil analysis, that is the only way to know if your oil is good or not. My AMSOIL 20w-50 Racing Oil, with 53 hours from last year, was still good to use, cleaner and stronger than Merc 25w-40 out of the bottle. I still change once a season, however.

synthetics are better for various reasons. number one would be that they don't break down as quick as conventional or partial syn's so you can run them longer and there fore the added expense might be worth it.

in high temp situtation such as turbos or extreme high rpm race motors they agian protect longer and don't break down so quickly. but agian if your changing oil every other race than your not getting the benefits. and certain things play havoc on syn's. such as methanol which breaks down synthetics much quicker than a conventational oil. also in a high perf motor you'll get blow-by into the oil no matter what so sometimes its better to change the oil more often and you'd be wasting $$$$.

look at the zinc and phosphate #'s to get a idea the tech difference and i think that most all the main race oils would work.so then it comes down to preference and cost.

also donimatorSS you should also look up water saturation. i just had this discussion with engine builder about how often to change oil if the motor has been siting for awhile. and just like gas oils can absorb water. so food for thought, especially if you leave your boat in the water

[07DominatorSS]

synthetics are better for various reasons. number one would be that they don't break down as quick as conventional or partial syn's so you can run them longer and there fore the added expense might be worth it.

in high temp situtation such as turbos or extreme high rpm race motors they agian protect longer and don't break down so quickly. but agian if your changing oil every other race than your not getting the benefits. and certain things play havoc on syn's. such as methanol which breaks down synthetics much quicker than a conventational oil. also in a high perf motor you'll get blow-by into the oil no matter what so sometimes its better to change the oil more often and you'd be wasting $$$$.

look at the zinc and phosphate #'s to get a idea the tech difference and i think that most all the main race oils would work.so then it comes down to preference and cost.

also donimatorSS you should also look up water saturation. i just had this discussion with engine builder about how often to change oil if the motor has been siting for awhile. and just like gas oils can absorb water. so food for thought, especially if you leave your boat in the water

I would love to see some documentation stating that petroluems won't break down as fast as a synthetic, with the presence of methanol. I've personally seen info from Shidaiwa, one of the largest producers of 2 cycle equipment in the world, stating to only use a high quality synthetic 2 cycle mix, due to ethanol and methanol presence in gasoline nowadays. Synthetics being able to counteract the presence of the alcohol, by adhering to the cylinder walls better, helping to prevent the alcohol from stripping the film of oil on the cylinder walls.

Secondly, who is your engine builder, I would change from him tomorrow. He sounds like a complete idiot! Oil and water don't mix!!! (2nd grade chemistry).

[skaterdave]

Secondly, who is your engine builder, I would change from him tomorrow. He sounds like a complete idiot! Oil and water don't mix!!! (2nd grade chemistry).[/QUOTE]

i guess you've never changed a drive with a bad seal??
if your boat sits in a place with a lot of condensation, i sure you know what that is, the condensation will build inside your engine just like when theres condensation in your house or car. especially if the boat is sitting just inches away from the water. and unless your engine makes good oil temp (190-240) and water temp (150-180) you will never burn off the moisture. and last i checked water doesn't lubricate too good. now this probably doesn't effect the guy that changes his oil routinely but if your going all season, well....

but hey, your probably that type of guy that brags about using $20 a quart oil in a 600 cubic in motor that makes 500 hp. oh yeh, but you only have to change it once a year?

you do understand the difference with 2 vs 4 stroke? even better your taking your hi-performance tips form a weed wacker manufacture?

[HaxbySpeed]

:boxing_smiley: :sifone:

I use the Gibbs Break in oil in almost every motor I build, and I've used their other synthetics in lots of applications with excellent results but I've never tried it in a boat. I just don't know if it's right for that application either. It's great quality oil but does it have what it takes to live for three months in a damp crank case that sees extreme heating and cooling cycles mixed with some salt water fuel/ethenol etc?

[skaterdave]

:boxing_smiley: :sifone:

I use the Gibbs Break in oil in almost every motor I build, and I've used their other synthetics in lots of applications with excellent results but I've never tried it in a boat. I just don't know if it's right for that application either. It's great quality oil but does it have what it takes to live for three months in a damp crank case that sees extreme heating and cooling cycles mixed with some salt water fuel/ethenol etc?

appearently the lawn mower people have done testing and have all the answers?

[cubicinches]

I use Gibbs BR break in oil for break in on all flat tappet engines. Gibbs offers non synthetic products as well... I've run the XP4 (which is the same oil as the BR in a different bottle) non synthetic in many marine applications without any issues.

[cougarman]

OK guys, what does anyone know about this oil. It has a lot of hard core race teams (not marine that I know of) using it.

They claim to have huge ZDDP content and formulate it (ZDDP) based on your operating temps among other things such as RPM, HP big or small block and type of racing. These are not formulated for street use.

Any opinions out there for Marine use?

http://www.joegibbsracingoil.com/

XP 6 is wnat I am looking at due to temperatures formulated for.

Very expensive BTW :ack2:


We went to a seminar this winter for Joe Gibbs Oil and Lake Speed junior spoke for a few hours. Very impressed,.......Joe Gibb's worked with the oil company for a few years to get the product to there specs. So when you buy Joe Gibbs oile you are getting the same oil as the race cars.

When you buy Mobil 1 it is not the same formula as the race cars.


We are switching to it and will be using there break in oil also.
They spent millions testing oils, break in thery's old school new school.

I will say they did there home work and I left more educated than I ever thought I could be on oil.


Thanks
Jon

[07DominatorSS]

Secondly, who is your engine builder, I would change from him tomorrow. He sounds like a complete idiot! Oil and water don't mix!!! (2nd grade chemistry).

i guess you've never changed a drive with a bad seal??
if your boat sits in a place with a lot of condensation, i sure you know what that is, the condensation will build inside your engine just like when theres condensation in your house or car. especially if the boat is sitting just inches away from the water. and unless your engine makes good oil temp (190-240) and water temp (150-180) you will never burn off the moisture. and last i checked water doesn't lubricate too good. now this probably doesn't effect the guy that changes his oil routinely but if your going all season, well....

but hey, your probably that type of guy that brags about using $20 a quart oil in a 600 cubic in motor that makes 500 hp. oh yeh, but you only have to change it once a year?

you do understand the difference with 2 vs 4 stroke? even better your taking your hi-performance tips form a weed wacker manufacture?[/QUOTE]

You're finally right on something, water doesn't lubricate very well. But when it actually comes to oil, you don't have a f**cking clue what you're talking about. I test my oil, to make sure its good. When that test is taken, it'll tell me if there is too much water in the oil, oh, thats right, there wasn't any after 53 hours, a full season for me. I don't use $20/qt oil, I use AMSOIL 20w-50 Racing oil, in my twin 496ho's. I'm sure you know the reason too, why all commercial airlines, every piece of military equipment, secret service, NASCAR use synthetics right? Oh yeah you obviously don't, its because they are far superior in film strength, resist breakdown, handle temperature variation much better, and can handle by-products of combustion much better. When you mention a drive with a bad seal, well, its bad seal, and yeah, there will be too much water in there. But for you to tell me that oil can absorb water, thats some funny sh*t!

[ar15meister]

I run Joe Gibbs XP5 Semi Synthetic in my 540 Tunnel Ram motor as per my engine builder's advice.

Dont have the knowledge to comment with some on here but thought I would put that out there.

I pay roughly 14 bucks a liter (CDN $).

[skaterdave]

I don't use $20/qt oil, I use AMSOIL 20w-50 Racing oil, in my twin 496ho's. I'm sure you know the reason too, why all commercial airlines, every piece of military equipment, secret service, NASCAR use synthetics right? Oh yeah you obviously don't, its because they are far superior in film strength, resist breakdown, handle temperature variation much better, and can handle by-products of combustion much better. When you mention a drive with a bad seal, well, its bad seal, and yeah, there will be too much water in there. But for you to tell me that oil can absorb water, thats some funny sh*t![/QUOTE]


thats great stuff there!!!!! your comparing your 496's to nascar engines?

well i guess you buy Amsoil racing 2 stroke oil for your weedwacker too? hea have at Amsoil needs the money for teagues sponsorship.

[rotax454]

nothing against gibbs, but i doubt he produces the oil, he's just repackaging some one elses stuff with his name on it, so why pay for bush to drive a toyota and act like an a-hole?

plus the only way to know if there's a benefit is to send your oil out and do an oil analyisis

You are correct and incorrect.
JGR has a manufacturer produce their oil to their specifications. It is called "private manufacturing-labeling". I also have discussed the JGR oils with several professional engine builders and all have said the same thing, JGR designed the contents of which the oil is to be packaged. This after many motors losing valves and springs. Remember those days of 7500 rpm NASCAR motors--------gone. So did the valvetrain reliability when the rpm's increased.

Correct when you write about the benefits of oil analysis. The results that you get back tell you what is going on with your internal components.

Side note: Hope that NASCAR never allows EFI. Why? Look at many race bodies that allow EFI and have RPM limits. Let'um rev baby.

[J-Bonz]

[QUOTE=rotax454;306826]You are correct and incorrect.
JGR has a manufacturer produce their oil to their specifications. It is called "private manufacturing-labeling". QUOTE]

Take a look, its a very diversified company with many years in the additive biz...

http://www.lubrizol.com/

[2112]

We went to a seminar this winter for Joe Gibbs Oil and Lake Speed junior spoke for a few hours. Very impressed,.......Joe Gibb's worked with the oil company for a few years to get the product to there specs. So when you buy Joe Gibbs oile you are getting the same oil as the race cars.

When you buy Mobil 1 it is not the same formula as the race cars.


We are switching to it and will be using there break in oil also.
They spent millions testing oils, break in thery's old school new school.

I will say they did there home work and I left more educated than I ever thought I could be on oil.


Thanks
Jon

What is your application and which variant are you planning to use?
.

[cougarman]

What is your application and which variant are you planning to use?
.

I went to the seminar with the Earhart Engineering & Performance group.
total of 4 guys in our group,......plus every other engine builder in town and all the serious Hard Core HP. guy's in 100 mile radius.

Earhart,.........likes to play with the 1,500 hp. Twin Turbo Marine engines :sifone:

As to the variant,.....I'll have to dig the paper work up. If I can scan it I will, be helpful to all.

Believe it or not they run the engine on the dyno foe 150 miles before the race. They have all the races tracks programmed on the dyno so they can run endurance test. The engine is not rebuilt before the race, and a good engine will get two races plus the dyno run of 150 plus miles.

They are pretty serious and need to be for the sake of not having excuses to there sponsor why the failed.

Other race teams are buying from them now, and encouraged them to go public with the oil.

They didn't go public for the money, they did it so the guys like us can keep our toys running at there best and as long as possible with out failures.

The whole reason they got into this was cause of cam failures.
They finally figured out after several scrapped engines it was cause of improved oil??? Which really means less of the good stuff and more of the additives. Lubrizol is the largest producer in the world of additives etc. and they had to go to them for the original formula prior to the up grade.

Then that lead into more development for what they have now made just for the Joe Gibbs team. Lubrizol offered to help them get the label etc. to actually put it out there instead of just a 55 gal. drum to the race team only.

Thats the short of it for now.


Take Care
Jon

[07DominatorSS]

I don't use $20/qt oil, I use AMSOIL 20w-50 Racing oil, in my twin 496ho's. I'm sure you know the reason too, why all commercial airlines, every piece of military equipment, secret service, NASCAR use synthetics right? Oh yeah you obviously don't, its because they are far superior in film strength, resist breakdown, handle temperature variation much better, and can handle by-products of combustion much better. When you mention a drive with a bad seal, well, its bad seal, and yeah, there will be too much water in there. But for you to tell me that oil can absorb water, thats some funny sh*t!


thats great stuff there!!!!! your comparing your 496's to nascar engines?

well i guess you buy Amsoil racing 2 stroke oil for your weedwacker too? hea have at Amsoil needs the money for teagues sponsorship.[/QUOTE]

Acutally, no where did I ever compare my 496ho's to Nascar Motors. No I don't use AMSOIL racing 2 stroke oil in my weedwacker, I use their 100:1 2cycle oil. I bet you're going to tell me that is too lean of a mix ratio right? Not exactly sure what trying to say about Teague, since your sentence is all jumbled, but he seems to be running pretty good for the last two years.

[2112]

Hey, guys take it outside. :ack2:

Lets find out what experience or knowledge out group may have on a potential improvement to our sport. :sifone:

.

[HaxbySpeed]

Hey 07Dominator, aren't you an Amsoil dealer? I'm in Vancouver and I can never find the stuff in stores up here aside from generic auto oil. Who sells it, or do you have to order in bulk?

[2112]

Hey 07Dominator, aren't you an Amsoil dealer? I'm in Vancouver and I can never find the stuff in stores up here aside from generic auto oil. Who sells it, or do you have to order in bulk?

Sending you a P/M
.

[CarBiz]

The builder who built my engines the first time recommend Gibbs. My second builder wants me to use it as well. I have flat tappet cams and Ben told me to run the Gibbs Hot Rod oil. It is a synthed with a bunch of ZDDP in it that i can tell.

BTW $108.00 a case!

[KENNYO]

I ran the break in oil. I have a case of the syn JGR oil but it was $10-12 a gallon and I change every 8-10 hrs. I hate to use it!

[Trim'd Up]

I ran the break in oil. I have a case of the syn JGR oil but it was $10-12 a gallon and I change every 8-10 hrs. I hate to use it!

That's cheaper than Mobil one. I may look into it. I thought it was more like $10-$12 a quart.

[2112]

I was quoted $14 per quart for the XP6. $13 if you buy in a 55 gallon drum.:ack2:

I change oil about 8-10 too so I am leaning toward Amsoil motorcycle oil.
.

[Airpacker]

My engine builder's choice as well as a few others I have spoken with. 15 hr change intervals and it doesn't cost an arm and a leg with 12 quarts a change.

http://www.bradpennracing.com

® Penn Grade 1® High Performance Oils contain the higher level of anti-wear (ZDDP

[cougarman]

Forgot to add this back when we had the discussion,..........lots of info here if you take the time to go through the PDF


Thanks
Jon

[J-Bonz]

Forgot to add this back when we had the discussion,..........lots of info here if you take the time to go through the PDF


Thanks
Jon

Good Find..... If you want some more truth, there is an SAE paper that has been published and can be purchased. Try the link below.

http://www.sae.org/technical/papers/2000-01-3553

[2112]

Good Find..... If you want some more truth, there is an SAE paper that has been published and can be purchased. Try the link below.

http://www.sae.org/technical/papers/2000-01-3553

Did you buy it? Did they compare Mobil 1, Amsoil and Gibbs? It wasn't clear in the description.
.

[Viper31]

My engine builder's choice as well as a few others I have spoken with. 15 hr change intervals and it doesn't cost an arm and a leg with 12 quarts a change.

http://www.bradpennracing.com

® Penn Grade 1® High Performance Oils contain the higher level of anti-wear (ZDDP


Brad Penn oil is the orignal formula Kendall GT1 I believe.

[MikeyFIN]

I would love to see some documentation stating that petroluems won't break down as fast as a synthetic, with the presence of methanol. I've personally seen info from Shidaiwa, one of the largest producers of 2 cycle equipment in the world, stating to only use a high quality synthetic 2 cycle mix, due to ethanol and methanol presence in gasoline nowadays. Synthetics being able to counteract the presence of the alcohol, by adhering to the cylinder walls better, helping to prevent the alcohol from stripping the film of oil on the cylinder walls.

Secondly, who is your engine builder, I would change from him tomorrow. He sounds like a complete idiot! Oil and water don't mix!!! (2nd grade chemistry).

WTF is SHIDAIWA...maybe the biggest not the BEST.

Oil and Water do mix... I studied petrochemistry at the Uni and worked in a refinery doing JUST THAT!
It´s called an emulsion and IS A MIX.

And I´f you ask me in a race engine I have used Mobil 1 and an additive to great succes but that additive was basically synthetic castor oil to raise the film strength and needed as the Mobil1 didn´t cut it alone.
Castrol and Valvoline synth´s did.
I could´ve used also a little drop of Non hypoid Gear lube to get the same result but the best for a race engine with frequent oil changes would be a HD-Diesel oil especially if it´s (turbo)charged...

So Skaterdave knows what he´s talking here.
Well he is a Racer...

[MikeyFIN]

You're finally right on something, water doesn't lubricate very well. But when it actually comes to oil, you don't have a f**cking clue what you're talking about. I test my oil, to make sure its good. When that test is taken, it'll tell me if there is too much water in the oil, oh, thats right, there wasn't any after 53 hours, a full season for me. I don't use $20/qt oil, I use AMSOIL 20w-50 Racing oil, in my twin 496ho's. I'm sure you know the reason too, why all commercial airlines, every piece of military equipment, secret service, NASCAR use synthetics right? Oh yeah you obviously don't, its because they are far superior in film strength, resist breakdown, handle temperature variation much better, and can handle by-products of combustion much better. When you mention a drive with a bad seal, well, its bad seal, and yeah, there will be too much water in there. But for you to tell me that oil can absorb water, thats some funny sh*t!

thats a Tall generalisation right there.

FYI the Current Mobil1 isn´t good for anything as it´s film strength just breaks down after it has gotten in even remote race use. I´d never put it in a Marine engine.
Do not ASK how I figured it out...
I had an engine at 12.6 comp running 112 VP...

And Mobil 1 of all truly breaks down even before any old style oil.
Before Mobil1 I had used paraffin based oils with succes (US) then afterwards I got some oil just Bottled in Mobil1 packages that you can´t buy...

[MikeyFIN]

Brad Penn oil is the orignal formula Kendall GT1 I believe.

True and a GREAT Product still.
I mean if you lose a few HP because of it how much do you loose by being yourself racing...:lurk5:

[MikeyFIN]

Forgot to add this back when we had the discussion,..........lots of info here if you take the time to go through the PDF


Thanks
Jon

lot´s of Sales mumbojumbo If you ask me...

[MikeyFIN]

Y

Side note: Hope that NASCAR never allows EFI. Why? Look at many race bodies that allow EFI and have RPM limits. Let'um rev baby.

all the FIA race classes allow EFI.... and no RPM limiters in any of them by the rule... so they Rev at up to 19000 rpm in F1 if needed.

Just FYI.

[J-Bonz]

Did you buy it? Did they compare Mobil 1, Amsoil and Gibbs? It wasn't clear in the description.
.

No I did not purchase it. I found it while looking for other papers for work. As far as the subject being a comparison, I dont think it is. I beleive it states more of the work that went on to create the oil.
Jr.

[LITTLE TOMMY]

Been using brad penn four years now and very happy with it!

[Biggus]

I'm not too impressed with Brad Penn oil. I've found it to break down pretty quickly when oil temps start reaching 260-270*

Here's a cut from an old OSO post.

I'll share my experiences with Brad Penn oil.
Up until last summer (2005) I had been running Pennzoil 20-50 (engine builders recommendation) I change my oil every 10 hrs and it seemed to work pretty well, no oil pressure issues, oil temps @230 after an occasional hard run 260 (measured before the cooler)
Toward the end of last season I had switched to Brad Penn 20-50 and was not very impressed to say the least. In June I trailered over to Lake Winnipesaukee for Laconia weekend.I had just done a fresh oil change for the trip. We did a lot of boating the first couple days. After three days of running Brad Penn (8 hrs run time) I noticed a loss of oil pressure. My boat normally runs about 60 lbs after warm up while cruising. We were cruising along at no more than 4000 rpm when I noticed the oil pressure dropping. It dropped to 40 lbs, then 30 lbs, I backed down to 3500 and pressure dropped to 20 lbs.
I thought It was engine trouble and stopped for a while. Upon restart, oil pressure returned to normal, 60 psi but soon dropped back to 20 after temps warmed up to normal.
It appears that the Brad Penn oil was all done at 8 hrs and was breaking down at less than 220 degrees oil temp.
I've since changed to Mobil 1 (V-Twin) and all has been fine since. The Mobil oil seems to be pretty consistent, no pressure fluctuations at all and more oil pressure.

Take it for what it's worth, just my personal experience.

Kurt