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ozarkdevil
07-23-2009, 11:26 PM
I ordered a new set of gimbal bearings for a pair of XR Drives, the part # was for Mercury red dot bearing but I got a white dot bearing. All the measurements are the same on the new & the old bearing, the only difference is the new bearing is a sealed bearing and the old bearing is a greaseable bearing. I called the parts supplier who then called Mercury & Mercury said it is the new & improved replacement bearing. I might be a little old fashion but it seams to me that a greaseable bearing is the better choice. Does anyone have any info on this new bearing?

MOBILEMERCMAN
07-23-2009, 11:32 PM
I don't have info but, I am with you I think grease able is better. Seems to be the trend now many bearings including cross bearings are sealed. I call BS

Chances are you can still get the same old bearing from an after market supplier.

DAREDEVIL
07-23-2009, 11:42 PM
I actually heard that the new ones are better ?! But thats what i heard !!!!!!!

ozarkdevil
07-25-2009, 10:27 AM
I am at a stand still with these new bearings, don't know if I should use them or not? :confused:

MOBILEMERCMAN
07-25-2009, 11:40 AM
They will work fine. We'll see how long they last.

DAREDEVIL
07-25-2009, 12:13 PM
I am at a stand still with these new bearings, don't know if I should use them or not? :confused:

They work fine,,,like i said they say that they are better since they are completley sealed.

ozarkdevil
07-25-2009, 12:29 PM
Thanks for the input, I am going out to install them right now.

Trim'd Up
07-25-2009, 02:26 PM
Just like U-joints. The sealed ones are better for people that don't maintain their equipment, but I am not one of those people.

mbam
07-26-2009, 09:37 AM
Yep, that is the new bearing, have already had a bunch of calls on it. Should be just fine.

cpmarine
08-26-2009, 08:43 PM
Should be better than the old one. It's sealed and you shouldn't get water in it anyhow. People tend to overgrease things so I think it's better they are going to greaseless bearings. Now we need greaseless bearing buddies for people who think you should grease your hubs every time you use your trailer.

2112
10-26-2009, 12:03 AM
I ordered a new set of gimbal bearings for a pair of XR Drives, the part # was for Mercury red dot bearing but I got a white dot bearing. All the measurements are the same on the new & the old bearing, the only difference is the new bearing is a sealed bearing and the old bearing is a greaseable bearing. I called the parts supplier who then called Mercury & Mercury said it is the new & improved replacement bearing. I might be a little old fashion but it seams to me that a greaseable bearing is the better choice. Does anyone have any info on this new bearing?

+1


I don't have info but, I am with you I think grease able is better. Seems to be the trend now many bearings including cross bearings are sealed. I call BS

Chances are you can still get the same old bearing from an after market supplier.

Which aftermarket supplier are you thinking of?
.

DAREDEVIL
10-26-2009, 09:32 AM
+1



Which aftermarket supplier are you thinking of?
.

I would call TIMKEN !!!!!!:USA:

MOBILEMERCMAN
10-26-2009, 03:56 PM
Link Belt used to make them for Merc.



Promarine may offer the aftermarket grease able one.

2112
10-28-2009, 01:29 AM
Jim,

On the ITS, there is a long steel/aluminum sleeve that prevents me from threading the bearing puller flange onto the threaded rod on the inside of the boat to pull the broken gimbal bearing out. I read the promarine description and it sounds like they are suggesting I knock it inward then thread the puller flange onto the threaded rod and pull it out but again on the ITS there isn't much room at all between the bearing and that long tube/sleeve.

If I knock it in, it looks like it will just get jammed in there.

How do you get the old bearing out on ITS gimbals? Also, I assume you are just using the puller to pull the new one in from the inside of the boat?
.

DAREDEVIL
10-28-2009, 08:21 AM
Take the drive off and from the outside !!!!!!!
NOT THE INSIDE !!!!!!!!!!!

MOBILEMERCMAN
10-28-2009, 09:43 AM
Scotty is correct. Pull the drive. The bearing will be staring at you.

2112
10-28-2009, 01:54 PM
Guys,

The drive is off. I am looking at the bearing. My question is how do I get the plate/flange that pulls the bearing outward without knocking the bearing inward first?

I cannot get the flange to the inside of the bearing from the inside of the boat due to the tube I was mentioning.

I'd hate to just hook it with a wrecking bar and start jerking it.

How do I get the bearing puller flange to the inside of the bearing? They need an expandable end piece like a wall molly to pass through and expand then pull the bearing back. At least on an ITS we do.
.

DAREDEVIL
10-28-2009, 02:21 PM
Guys,

The drive is off. I am looking at the bearing. My question is how do I get the plate/flange that pulls the bearing outward without knocking the bearing inward first?

I cannot get the flange to the inside of the bearing from the inside of the boat due to the tube I was mentioning.

I'd hate to just hook it with a wrecking bar and start jerking it.

How do I get the bearing puller flange to the inside of the bearing? They need an expandable end piece like a wall molly to pass through and expand then pull the bearing back. At least on an ITS we do.
.

What kind of puller do u have ????????

I don't understand !

U should not do anything to the inside of the boat or from the inside !!

The 3 claws from the puller point outward ( u can turn them ) u stick it in the bearing ,,,clamp them down and ( that is why i like a slide hammer ) yank it out ..
30 sec job !!

MOBILEMERCMAN
10-28-2009, 02:45 PM
To pull it a 3 jaw or an expanding colette tool is needed to remove it. It is all done from outside.. The drivers to install the bearing are different. I pm'd my number call me.

2112
10-28-2009, 03:26 PM
To pull it a 3 jaw or an expanding colette tool is needed to remove it. It is all done from outside.. The drivers to install the bearing are different. I pm'd my number call me.

Got it.

I have the Mercury Marine "bearing puller kit" with more than a dozen different colletts to use but no 3 jaw or expandable unit.

That explains it. :(


Jim I will call tonight after my last patient.

.

MOBILEMERCMAN
10-28-2009, 04:37 PM
Here is what the one you need looks like. Chris mentioned borrowing or renting one for advance auto or something.

44775

and the drivers

44776

44777

2112
10-28-2009, 06:12 PM
The top one is the missing piece. I guessed for almost 300 bucks for Merc's "puller" kit, I would have gotten that piece too. Maybe their Chinese supplier forgot to put it in. :(

Add to that the pro-marine description on their puller of knocking the bearing in, then engaging it and pulling it out. :ack2:
.

MOBILEMERCMAN
10-28-2009, 06:24 PM
The pro one has an expanding piece to remove it..

You must have bought the basic kit. There are countless other pieces for the various drives.

I would hate to calculate what I have spent over the years

imco offshore
10-28-2009, 07:48 PM
jimmy can the bearing be pushed in half way and be pulled out thru the two slots 180 of each other,? i remember doing something like that at a race once,

MOBILEMERCMAN
10-28-2009, 07:57 PM
They have been loading them so you can't for a number of years now. Plus the XRs and ITS's use offset bearings.

DAREDEVIL
10-28-2009, 08:42 PM
The top one is the missing piece. I guessed for almost 300 bucks for Merc's "puller" kit, I would have gotten that piece too. Maybe their Chinese supplier forgot to put it in. :(

Add to that the pro-marine description on their puller of knocking the bearing in, then engaging it and pulling it out. :ack2:
.

300 Bucks ???? u could have bought 5 on e-bay for that !!:(

I fell for u .

Clustergear
10-28-2009, 11:49 PM
He's a place that has good prices on pullers and other tools. The OTC slide hammer with jaws is the one to get because the slide will thread into all the Mercury tools that need a slide hammer. Slide pullers near bottom of page. http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/m-1239-otc-pullers-and-slide-hammers.aspx

DAREDEVIL
10-29-2009, 12:24 AM
He's a place that has good prices on pullers and other tools. The OTC slide hammer with jaws is the one to get because the slide will thread into all the Mercury tools that need a slide hammer. Slide pullers near bottom of page. http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/m-1239-otc-pullers-and-slide-hammers.aspx

NICE !!!!!!!!:sifone:

2112
10-29-2009, 01:43 AM
Argh!

The bearing center came out in pieces. The outer ring is welded to the Gimbal.
Totally collapsed the Merc bar that came with the bearing puller kit. :(

Jim, Did you say you had to cut the bearing in these instances or just try to force a prying instrument between the bearing housing and the Gimbal?

Soaking in PB overnight. I need to round up a square steel tube like you use.

Oh, I forgot to ask, do you have the part # for the tool to crimp the retainers on the hose and shift bellows?

Calling Promarine in the morning for the other tools.
.

2112
10-29-2009, 01:44 AM
300 Bucks ???? u could have bought 5 on e-bay for that !!:(

I fell for u .

Mine says Merc....made in china on it. It must be worth it. :USA:
.

MikeyFIN
10-29-2009, 08:02 AM
I don't have info but, I am with you I think grease able is better. Seems to be the trend now many bearings including cross bearings are sealed. I call BS

Chances are you can still get the same old bearing from an after market supplier.


Otherwizse I Agree but uni joints are stronger prelubed if it matters.

Geronimo36
10-29-2009, 09:54 AM
Link Belt used to make them for Merc.



Promarine may offer the aftermarket grease able one.

Mallory makes some really good replacement parts for Merc stuff!!!

FYI, some are Mallory parts while others are rebadged Merc but @ Mallory prices! ;)

Geronimo36
10-29-2009, 03:34 PM
Got it.

I have the Mercury Marine "bearing puller kit" with more than a dozen different colletts to use but no 3 jaw or expandable unit.

That explains it. :(


Jim I will call tonight after my last patient.

.


I have this puller set at home. I think I picked it up at Pepboys even.... http://www.tooltopia.com/kd-tools-41700.aspx?utm_source=pricegrabber&utm_medium=cse&utm_term=KDT41700&utm_campaign=pricegrabber_r1

LAKE EFFECT
11-09-2009, 07:59 AM
When I replaced mine I used a threaded rod with a big washer and nut on the bearing side, and a piece of flat stock on the bellhousing. I pulled out the bearing instead if hammering it out. Because of the very little clearance between the bearing and inner seal I just pulled the seal with the bearing. They both were in there tight, but came out easy as soon as the bearing started to move. Replaced the seals with the bearings.

I use the same threaded rod when pulling bearing races from drive housing, seems so much easier then banging with a slide hammer.

LE

rockpirate
05-03-2010, 12:25 AM
Has anyone found out where to getr greaseable replacement bearing?? Or are wr stuck replacing these things every 100 hrs.

HiZ
05-03-2010, 12:43 PM
Driveline fun!!! Oh yeaah~

Good Idea Lake effect, some of the non-Maintained bearings are IN THERE!
Did one on an Alpha a while ago and Wow what a pain