Thicken gel for repair on chine

[Knot 4 Me]

I have some gel for my boat that I received from the manufacture to give to my body guy to shoot over a bad factory repair on one of the strakes. Early this week at LOTO, I must of hit something in the water as now I have a pretty good chunk of gel missing on my starboard chine. You can see the fiberglass at the deepest part of the damaged area. I don't have any hardener but can pick some up at the local auto parts story (I assume fiberglass resin hardener will work fine?). What can I use, if anything, to thicken the gel up to more of a paste-like consistancy given the location of the repair? Or should the area be filled in with filler and then shot over with gel since it is on the edge of and under the chine? TIA!

[Chris]

I don't know the exact number, byt there's a maximum thickness for gel. And it's not very thick. I would definitely use a marine-specific filler underneath. Gel is decorative and it provides a water barrier, but it has no real strength of its own.

As far as hardener, I would never consider using anything other than what the manufacturer of the product specified. "They're all the same" isn't usually correct.

[Ratickle]

Your strongest "easy" repair will be with a longer setting two part epoxy thickened with micro ballons. Go to a hobby/marine shop that sells west systems. They should have it. Then, after the couple of times filling it and sanding it, put the gel repair color on top.

Should last till you hit something else.....:)

Anyway, wait for Dave to answer. Not positive he'd do it the same way or agree with what I just wrote....:sifone:

[Knot 4 Me]

Thanks. I think part of the problem with this area is that the gel is so thick there from the factory that it was more prone to damage when I hit something in the water. There was a lot of debris in the water but I never heard anything hit the hull. I was thinking it best to fill in the area and then shoot gel over it...which means my buddy Damon (who has done work for David Scott) will be seeing the boat again!

[ROGUE]

I don't know the exact number, byt there's a maximum thickness for gel. And it's not very thick. I would definitely use a marine-specific filler underneath. Gel is decorative and it provides a water barrier, but it has no real strength of its own.

As far as hardener, I would never consider using anything other than what the manufacturer of the product specified. "They're all the same" isn't usually correct.

Just a slight correction, gel is not a water barrier.

Ive always used MEK as a hardener but I suppose it might depend on the manufacturer.

[Chris]

Just a slight correction, gel is not a water barrier.

Ive always used MEK as a hardener but I suppose it might depend on the manufacturer.

Well, technically-speaking, water will dissolve all other compounds. Chemically, it's the ultimate solvent.

Gel is more of a water barrier than bare FRP.

[glassdave]

Your strongest "easy" repair will be with a longer setting two part epoxy thickened with micro ballons. Go to a hobby/marine shop that sells west systems. They should have it. Then, after the couple of times filling it and sanding it, put the gel repair color on top.

Should last till you hit something else.....:)

Anyway, wait for Dave to answer. Not positive he'd do it the same way or agree with what I just wrote....:sifone:

OK Rat im gonna hafta revise you method there just a tad bit :D

epoxy and polyester gel do not mix. If anything use a polyester resin with a high density filler like West Systems 404, if its not to deep use 407. If you build the repair area up you will not need to thicken the gel at all but you will need at the very least a waxing agent or Duratech high gloss additive. If those are not avaliable topcoat with PVA (polyvinylalcohol) Most any poly resins can be catylized with pretty much any MEKP (methyl ethyl ketone peroxide) unless otherwise specified. I actually purchase my catylist (Superox) from a different supplier then my resin supplier(Ashland) .

How big is the repair area? There are some techniques for doing small areas.

optimum thickness for gel is .010” to .020” (10-20 mil)but its very rare that any manufacturer adheres to this. Most meterials are dumped into molds without a whole lot of quality control. You are correct many dings on chines and sharp edges are a result of to thick gel, seen it a million times. You will be fine if you "ball park" it though:D