Leak from Bravo

[Ted]

Okay, this one is kicking my butt. Pulled the drives for cables, service, etc. Engine alignment checked and corrected on port side only. Drives slid back real nice, no problem so far. After first time out drives both low in reservoirs, topped off. Starboard has been fine since. Port drive has developed a leak between the drive and the bellhousing right where the reservoir check valve is. Removed it again and everything looked okay, cleaned the o-ring groove real well (had a little sealer in there) and resealed with new seal. Got one day out of it and leak started again, you can actually see it seeping out between the drive and bellhousing. So what am I missing? It looks like there are 2 little o-rings on the check valve and a seal the ball seats against, but even if it leaked there, why will it get past the big case o-ring? Gurus, your thoughts please.

[Knot 4 Me]

Have you checked all around the drive and bellhousing mounting surfaces to make sure there is nothing preventing a good, tight seal all the way around? Is the stud backing out of the bellhousing when you tighten the nut near the check valve? Just spit-balling here...

[Sydwayz]

Just pull the check ball and the drive lube bottle, and thread a plug in there. It will be fine. :D :D

[Geronimo36]

Did you use 3M weatherstrip adhesive or bellows adhesive when putting the new o-ring in place?

I'd pull it off, clean with carb or brake cleaner, glue a new o-ring on with 3M and bolt it together. Been doing it this way as long as I've been doing it and never had one leak.

[MOBILEMERCMAN]

Ted. Weather strip the O ring in place and grease the opposite mating surface. It is small and if the groove is corroded it wont seal. Also like Knot said check for something else keeping it from pulling up tight. Often there is a build up of weather strip around other o rings. Maybe it is holding the drive off a little. I expect you checked the opposite side where the O ring seals and inspected for scratches or gauges. Pull the 6 bellhousing bolts up even. Tighten to 50 or 55 lbs.

If the reservoir is plugged {not vented} it will make pressure and push out the easiest place.

[Ted]

Thanks guys (even Brian). I did basically what you said with a little rtv in there and I also found the plastic clamp that holds the hose on broken so that may have added to the leak. Anyway, the hose is reclamped, the drive is back on and sealed and now I just need some gear lube and we are good to go. Just for good measure I am replacing all the lock nuts since they seems to be worn in the locking portion.

[Spicy]

Thanks guys (even Brian). I did basically what you said with a little rtv in there and I also found the plastic clamp that holds the hose on broken so that may have added to the leak. Anyway, the hose is reclamped, the drive is back on and sealed and now I just need some gear lube and we are good to go. Just for good measure I am replacing all the lock nuts since they seems to be worn in the locking portion.


How do you know if you fixed the leaks if you didn't put gear lube back in yet???? :seeya::willy_nilly::rofl:


Just here to help!!!!

[OldSchool]

and now I just need some gear lube and we are good to go.

There should be some in my shed!!:reddevil::willy_nilly::rofl::rofl:

[Ted]

There should be some in my shed!!:reddevil::willy_nilly::rofl::rofl:



Yep, just enough to coat my nuts :rofl::willy_nilly: