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rchevelle71
05-11-2010, 07:54 AM
SO,

Since I havent moved my trailer for a few months, things seem a lttle sticky:rolleyes:

I decided to pull the boat out this past weekend to make room to work on the deck, and when I moved it forward, the left rear wheels brakes seemed stuck. This was verified when I backed it up, and it just pushed the dirt behind it. So Sunday I made a bonehead move, and dragged it out to the street, thinking that once it hit the asphalt, it would free up, didnt happen, so now here I am in the middle of the street at 5PM on Mothers day, blocking the road. I quickly jacked it up, and tried to remove the wheel in order to free the brake manually(or remove the caliper completely). In my rush, I got a big old bar, and tried to remove the lug nuts, all came free, but one, so I applied some more force figuring if it breaks the stud, I will just replace the stud later. Well, it didnt break the stud, but it did spin, and now just keeps spinning without coming off. One of 2 things happened, either the threads are gone, and the nut wont catch the remaining outer threads, or I ripped the knurl off the stud. Any ideas on how to remove this thing? so I can fix the brake?? By the way, at that point I said screw it, I am going to back it thru the grass, I didnt care at that point if I tore up the lawn, wouldnt you know, that a few feet before I got it back into its home, the brake freed up:rolleyes:

Also, I gotta see whats up witht he right front, wears the outside of the tires like mad. Looks like this weekend will be trailer repair rather than fiberglass.

Chris
05-11-2010, 08:42 AM
You'll probably have to drill down the center of the stud to get that lug off- at least if you want to protect that wheel.

Also, this is why everyone should have a length of chain in their tow toolbox. If you have a problem with an axle, you can pull it up and limp your way to help- or just back into your driveway.

DAREDEVIL
05-11-2010, 08:47 AM
Use a nut splitter on it and split the lugnut !!!!!!

Then go from there..they work, i had to do it on my myco because i lost the key for the locks !:eek:

rchevelle71
05-11-2010, 09:40 AM
Use a nut splitter on it and split the lugnut !!!!!!

Then go from there..they work, i had to do it on my myco because i lost the key for the locks !:eek:

It is not a full lug nut like the fancy chrome ones, just an old school open nut with the stud sticking thru the middle, will a nut splitter work on that??

rchevelle71
05-11-2010, 09:45 AM
You'll probably have to drill down the center of the stud to get that lug off- at least if you want to protect that wheel.

Also, this is why everyone should have a length of chain in their tow toolbox. If you have a problem with an axle, you can pull it up and limp your way to help- or just back into your driveway.


I agree, but it was late Sunday, and I had a few :cheers2: and sniffed a bunch of resin at that point:sifone:

DAREDEVIL
05-11-2010, 10:00 AM
It is not a full lug nut like the fancy chrome ones, just an old school open nut with the stud sticking thru the middle, will a nut splitter work on that??

YES !!!!!! it will !!!!!!!!:cheers2:

Chris
05-11-2010, 10:31 AM
I agree, but it was late Sunday, and I had a few :cheers2: and sniffed a bunch of resin at that point:sifone:

Resin fumes will definitely mess you up.

fixxxer22
05-11-2010, 10:47 AM
you could also use a lady foot prybar behind the nut and spin it until it catches some threads. it will most likely come off hard still and destroy all the remaining threads. but you are going to need to replace the stud and nut anyways.

rchevelle71
05-11-2010, 10:51 AM
YES !!!!!! it will !!!!!!!!:cheers2:

OK, now that I see how they work(looked it up on th internet:sifone:), I will take a look tonight and see if I have clearance to use one, it is only a 14" wheel:rolleyes: May stop by sears ont he way home and check the overall size of the splitter.

rchevelle71
05-11-2010, 10:53 AM
you could also use a lady foot prybar behind the nut and spin it until it catches some threads. it will most likely come off hard still and destroy all the remaining threads. but you are going to need to replace the stud and nut anyways.

Thought about that on sunday, but I dont think it is out far enough to get anything behind it, may be that the stud is turning also, gotta get a 13/16 wrench, rather than the socket on it to check.

rchevelle71
05-11-2010, 09:30 PM
Got the compressor fixed tonight, so maybe its a good sign, and I will get some work done before the weekend.

DAREDEVIL
05-12-2010, 12:05 PM
OK, now that I see how they work(looked it up on th internet:sifone:), I will take a look tonight and see if I have clearance to use one, it is only a 14" wheel:rolleyes: May stop by sears ont he way home and check the overall size of the splitter.

It should fit,, it did on my mag wheels and they are real stupid shaped !

Chris
05-12-2010, 12:09 PM
Many aluminum wheels have the recessed holes for the lugs. If yours don't the nut splitter may work. If you have to drill, use a small diameter at first to get a pilot hole.

DAREDEVIL
05-12-2010, 12:12 PM
Rick, just thought about this again. U can also take the bearing out , take the hole wheel off including the brake drum, then take a grinder and cut the stud off in the back, then just dis asamble and throw in a new stud !!!!!:cheers2:

Chris
05-12-2010, 12:30 PM
Rick, just thought about this again. U can also take the bearing out , take the hole wheel off including the brake drum, then take a grinder and cut the stud off in the back, then just dis asamble and throw in a new stud !!!!!:cheers2:

Damn. That's a good idea.

rchevelle71
05-12-2010, 12:55 PM
Many aluminum wheels have the recessed holes for the lugs. If yours don't the nut splitter may work. If you have to drill, use a small diameter at first to get a pilot hole.

I have galvanized steel wheels.

MILD THUNDER
05-12-2010, 12:56 PM
Rick, just thought about this again. U can also take the bearing out , take the hole wheel off including the brake drum, then take a grinder and cut the stud off in the back, then just dis asamble and throw in a new stud !!!!!:cheers2:

Yep. Easiest way! Thats how i always had to remove my electric drum assemblies off my snowmobile trailers.

rchevelle71
05-12-2010, 12:58 PM
Rick, just thought about this again. U can also take the bearing out , take the hole wheel off including the brake drum, then take a grinder and cut the stud off in the back, then just dis asamble and throw in a new stud !!!!!:cheers2:

Not sure if that will work with the oil bath hubs, I have never worked on them, so not sure how they come apart? This is not exactly what i have, but similar.

DAREDEVIL
05-12-2010, 01:11 PM
Not sure if that will work with the oil bath hubs, I have never worked on them, so not sure how they come apart? This is not exactly what i have, but similar.

They come appart the same way as others , exept u have to unscrew the plastic cap and drin the oil....not in the driveway !!!! :smash:

fixxxer22
05-12-2010, 01:30 PM
Rick, just thought about this again. U can also take the bearing out , take the hole wheel off including the brake drum, then take a grinder and cut the stud off in the back, then just dis asamble and throw in a new stud !!!!!:cheers2:

:iagree: really good idea!

Chris
05-12-2010, 02:00 PM
Might be a good time to change those hubs. Oil bath is the most durable, but immersing them is a problem. My favorites are the one's that use grease but you pressurize with a little basketball pump and needle.

Chris
05-12-2010, 02:01 PM
http://www.airtighthubs.com/products-sport-5200.php

phragle
05-12-2010, 02:07 PM
Consider it a blessing, going down the road and get a flat with no way to get the wheel off.... might be a good time for a little PM on the rest of the wheels....

DAREDEVIL
05-12-2010, 02:27 PM
Consider it a blessing, going down the road and get a flat with no way to get the wheel off.... might be a good time for a little PM on the rest of the wheels....

WTF is PM ??????:confused:

phragle
05-12-2010, 02:42 PM
Preventative Maintenance

Chris
05-12-2010, 03:19 PM
WTF is PM ??????:confused:

That explains everything ;)

sweet addiction
05-12-2010, 03:36 PM
You beat me to it. I was going to say grind it off.



Rick, just thought about this again. U can also take the bearing out , take the hole wheel off including the brake drum, then take a grinder and cut the stud off in the back, then just dis asamble and throw in a new stud !!!!!:cheers2:

phragle
05-12-2010, 04:57 PM
I watched my grandpa freeze one once, then hit it with a big punch and inertial amplification device and it snapped right off....

DAREDEVIL
05-12-2010, 04:59 PM
I watched my grandpa freeze one once, then hit it with a big punch and inertial amplification device and it snapped right off....

Yep, stick the trailer in the freezer !!!!! GOOD IDEA :rofl:

Chris
05-12-2010, 05:00 PM
Can of freon. Works wonders.

DAREDEVIL
05-12-2010, 05:04 PM
U all know , that u can make a simple task VERY VERY hard !!!!!????:rolleyes:

fixxxer22
05-12-2010, 05:35 PM
you could remove all the valve stem caps and slide another trailer under them.:cheers2::smash::sifone:

rchevelle71
05-12-2010, 07:28 PM
OK, the hub covers screw off from the outside, still not sure I can get the caliper out of the way with the wheel attached, but we shall see.

For the alignment problem...........

Should these be level, or at least pivot freely?

The tire that is wearing the outside is 1/4" more spacing hub to hub than the other side, that would explain the outside wear, if these are stuck like this??

first right, then left, the pen in the pic is front on both sides.

rchevelle71
05-12-2010, 07:30 PM
Rick, just thought about this again. U can also take the bearing out , take the hole wheel off including the brake drum, then take a grinder and cut the stud off in the back, then just dis asamble and throw in a new stud !!!!!:cheers2:

Oh yeah, they are disc brakes, Kodiak., reliable oil bath hubs, and yes, the covers unscrew.

DAREDEVIL
05-12-2010, 07:46 PM
OK, the hub covers screw off from the outside, still not sure I can get the caliper out of the way with the wheel attached, but we shall see.

For the alignment problem...........

Should these be level, or at least pivot freely?

The tire that is wearing the outside is 1/4" more spacing hub to hub than the other side, that would explain the outside wear, if these are stuck like this??

first right, then left, the pen in the pic is front on both sides.

YES,,they need to swifel FREE and actually should be a driangle hanger and level !!

Also check the bushings on the leave springs..if they are gone,,problem.

The reason why i am converting to torsion axles !!!:cheers2:

And next time have your wife take the pix,,,nobody wants to see your ugly legs or those old shoes..lol

rchevelle71
05-12-2010, 09:21 PM
YES,,they need to swifel FREE and actually should be a driangle hanger and level !!

Also check the bushings on the leave springs..if they are gone,,problem.

The reason why i am converting to torsion axles !!!:cheers2:

And next time have your wife take the pix,,,nobody wants to see your ugly legs or those old shoes..lol

Those are my work shoes, they are famous around the hood, sometimes I even forget I am wearing them, and wander to the store with them on:cheers2:

Madpoodle
05-13-2010, 05:59 AM
Quityerwhining... :)


Trying to save this one for a friend... :ack2: :willy_nilly: :eek:

rchevelle71
05-13-2010, 07:56 AM
Quityerwhining... :)


Trying to save this one for a friend... :ack2: :willy_nilly: :eek:

HOLY PHUCK,

the aluminum is all eaten away:eek:

I would sell that one for scrap:rolleyes:

ricochet myk
05-13-2010, 10:50 AM
Wow, :eek: Rick has ScottyB been doing your trailer maintinence ? Looks just like the trailer under the race boat...Good Luck ! Mike P.S. Dont get mad Scotty ! :kiss:

DAREDEVIL
05-13-2010, 10:57 AM
Wow, :eek: Rick has ScottyB been doing your trailer maintinence ? Looks just like the trailer under the race boat...Good Luck ! Mike P.S. Dont get mad Scotty ! :kiss:

LOL :eek::bump::sifone:

rchevelle71
05-13-2010, 01:42 PM
Wow, :eek: Rick has ScottyB been doing your trailer maintinence ? Looks just like the trailer under the race boat...Good Luck ! Mike P.S. Dont get mad Scotty ! :kiss:

Mike,

those last pics are not of my trailer, the aluminum on mine is mint, just the steel crap that sucks. My trailer is all Aluminum, including the bunks, with galvanized crossmembers axles, and tongue, stainless steel fasteners. My problem is just with the axles and brakes. When are ya gonna get the Pantera wet?
You can kinda see my trailer in these pics, and just in case you havent seen the transom resurrection yet:rolleyes:

Last picture is what I tore out:eek:

PS,

Scotty is a great driver, and throttleman, but was never known for maintenance, he had people for that(me and Laura), the boat came first, trailer second, but that trailer had seen a LOT of miles, and many dunkings in Saltwater all over the east coast.

Rick

rchevelle71
05-13-2010, 09:18 PM
Got the wheel off today, and the brake caliper. When I went under there to look, I noticed the brake line to that wheel was busted off, and it was the only one of the 4 rusted near the fitting. I am beginning to think this thing has had a leak for a while, and got some water in it causing drag, and throwing the alignment off wearing the other tire. I remember when it started acting funny, last year on my way home from the Marathon race, I was on the phone with Trent, and had to hang up to pull over because it didnt feel right, checked the tire pressures, all was good, got it home, then ever since then, I have had tire wear, and the brake sticks when it sits for a long time.

rchevelle71
05-14-2010, 08:40 AM
Gonna have to take a better look at my caliper........

http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/275399-one-my-kodiak-ss-calipers-done-fell-off-carrier-crazy-pics.html:eek:

MacGyver
05-14-2010, 11:42 AM
Also, this is why everyone should have a length of chain in their tow toolbox. If you have a problem with an axle, you can pull it up and limp your way to help- or just back into your driveway.

I've heard about this, but have never seen it done.

rchevelle71
05-14-2010, 11:50 AM
I've heard about this, but have never seen it done.


Same here, I have ratchet straps in the truck tool box to ratchet it up, or just use the jack, probably should carry the chain also.

Chris
05-14-2010, 11:56 AM
The ratchet strap mechanism is often too long to get in there. You probably already have a bottle jack since that's about all you can use to get at these things anyway. A 3' piece of 1/4" chain and a bolt ban save your ass. Under the axle, over the frame rail and you're on your way.

DAREDEVIL
05-14-2010, 01:43 PM
The ratchet strap mechanism is often too long to get in there. You probably already have a bottle jack since that's about all you can use to get at these things anyway. A 3' piece of 1/4" chain and a bolt ban save your ass. Under the axle, over the frame rail and you're on your way.

:iagree:

ricochet myk
05-14-2010, 02:03 PM
Hey Rick, The new motor goes in tonite, With the first test run later this week. Mike

rchevelle71
05-14-2010, 02:21 PM
Hey Rick, The new motor goes in tonite, With the first test run later this week. Mike

Cool,

Let me know if you need anything. Got my trailer deal figgered out........I Think:rolleyes:

ricochet myk
05-14-2010, 02:29 PM
Great, What I really need is a Large Bag of Money !!! Quick

rchevelle71
05-14-2010, 02:35 PM
Great, What I really need is a Large Bag of Money !!! Quick

I hear ya, but can't help you on that one(heck, look at my piece of junk in pieces), anything else, my # is 954-254-0414.

Rick