2000 7.3 PSD Hesitation

[Seafordguy]

2000 PSD - Has always (last 2 years) had a slight hesitation apparent with small amounts of throttle when cold but would be fine when it warmed up, so I just lived with it.

Started getting worse the last 2 days. Seems to be okay under VERY light throttle, and okay under FULL throttle, but in between it seems to be stumbling stuttering and hesitating a fair amount.

Thoughts guys? Throttle Pedal Assembly stands out from when I asked this question about a year ago on tdg.com back when it wasn't an annoying problem, but would these latest symptoms coincide with the Pedal Assembly Theory?

NO CODES or CEL.

OH - and can someone throw out the name of some vendors - trying to remember the name of the one I bought my E-brake cable from. I think they were in IN and had PowerStroke in the name - great to deal with. - NEVERMIND, I found it: powerstrokeshop.com

Countin on you fixxxer!!

Just disconnected the EBPV sensor with no change. They symptoms are VERY consistent relative to pedal input.....

Thanks,

Eric

[fixxxer22]

Any smoke when the concern is present? if so what color. And the pedal will not make a code in the pcm. If you had a pedal issue you would have a wrench lamp or a flashing OD off lamp. Let me know what you find.

[Seafordguy]

Any smoke when the concern is present? if so what color. And the pedal will not make a code in the pcm. If you had a pedal issue you would have a wrench lamp or a flashing OD off lamp. Let me know what you find.

No smoke at all, and no code.....

I'm a 6 speed. I am really leaning towards the pedal, since the occurrence is so consistent within the pedal range....

[BUIZILLA]

do a cylinder balance test, and a buzz test on each injector

you may have one weak injector coil, or a broken nozzle spring

[Seafordguy]

do a cylinder balance test, and a buzz test on each injector

you may have one weak injector coil, or a broken nozzle spring

Would those symptoms be consistent with a truck that runs so well as WOT?

[BUIZILLA]

yup

[fixxxer22]

when the pedal has a fault the truck goes to idle. there are position sensors that are inverted from each other. if they have a conflict of interest the truck will return to idle. also you should be able to duplicate the concern in neutral and all gears at the same pedal position.

is the truck returning to idle when the fault occours?

lets also check for icp sensor bias. disconnect the 3 wire sensor on the drivers side front of the head. it will be hooked to the hp oil rail in the head. it is in the valley facing inward... you cant miss it.

disconnect the sensor and drive the truck. this will make it run off of learned values and we will see if we have some sensor bias at that pressure. if the truck runs without hesitation i would replace the sensor. if theree is oil in the connector cavity i would replace the sensor and connector.

let me know what you find out

[Sick Sting]

Thats exaclly what mine did when the pedal was bad it was intermitan. Nothing would happen for a couple seconds with it to the floor all of a sudden it would open right up. I also had a problem with the back pressure valve not opening when you hit the brake. Sounds like a hissing sound when cold to help warm up. But you have a pedel issue as Fixxer said
-Mike

[ao31]

lets also check for icp sensor bias. disconnect the 3 wire sensor on the drivers side front of the head. it will be hooked to the hp oil rail in the head. it is in the valley facing inward... you cant miss it.

disconnect the sensor and drive the truck. this will make it run off of learned values and we will see if we have some sensor bias at that pressure. if the truck runs without hesitation i would replace the sensor. if theree is oil in the connector cavity i would replace the sensor and connector.


Had a similar issue with my '01

[Seafordguy]

when the pedal has a fault the truck goes to idle. there are position sensors that are inverted from each other. if they have a conflict of interest the truck will return to idle. also you should be able to duplicate the concern in neutral and all gears at the same pedal position.

is the truck returning to idle when the fault occours?

lets also check for icp sensor bias. disconnect the 3 wire sensor on the drivers side front of the head. it will be hooked to the hp oil rail in the head. it is in the valley facing inward... you cant miss it.

disconnect the sensor and drive the truck. this will make it run off of learned values and we will see if we have some sensor bias at that pressure. if the truck runs without hesitation i would replace the sensor. if theree is oil in the connector cavity i would replace the sensor and connector.

let me know what you find out


Just got home - Pulled the harness off, truck ran WITHOUT hesitation at all. Came back to the house, put the sensor back on - truck ran like CRAP.

I guess that sensor is bad.....

[fixxxer22]

If there is no presence of oil in the connector or cavity of the old sensor i would replace the sensor with a ford part. the sensor has been updated over the years and your best bet it a ford one. replace the sensor and the truck will run even better. you have a gap of bias in that sensor which is giving the injection system false readings at certain pressures. i have seen this happen many times... hell, the 6.0 had a recall at one time for the icp sensor due to the same concerns.

If you are feeling froggy you can replace the connector. that would be considered the perfect repair. let me know if you need part numbers

[Seafordguy]

If there is no presence of oil in the connector or cavity of the old sensor i would replace the sensor with a ford part. the sensor has been updated over the years and your best bet it a ford one. replace the sensor and the truck will run even better. you have a gap of bias in that sensor which is giving the injection system false readings at certain pressures. i have seen this happen many times... hell, the 6.0 had a recall at one time for the icp sensor due to the same concerns.

If you are feeling froggy you can replace the connector. that would be considered the perfect repair. let me know if you need part numbers

It was dry as a bone so at this point I will just replace the sensor. Is it okay for me to drive it around for a day or two disconnected?

fixxxer - you are going to be INVALUABLE..... THANKS!!

[fixxxer22]

Its ok, you will get a check engine lamp. Fuel economy will suffer and it may have a longer crank time when starting. Other than that it will not hurt the truck at all to run off of stored values that is what the PCM is there for.

To clear the codes down the road.... disconnect both batteries and tape the positive and negative leads togeter overnight. that will for sure clear out the codes.

[Seafordguy]

Its ok, you will get a check engine lamp. Fuel economy will suffer and it may have a longer crank time when starting. Other than that it will not hurt the truck at all to run off of stored values that is what the PCM is there for.

To clear the codes down the road.... disconnect both batteries and tape the positive and negative leads togeter overnight. that will for sure clear out the codes.

You are spot on - both times it did crank a little longer than normal (such that i noticed it).

I have a code reader so hopefully I can clear them with that, but it is one of those Advance Auto ones and i am not sure how helpful they are on the PSD.

Fixxxer - thanks a ton...

[fixxxer22]

The code reader will work just fine. And, no problem. I know about the Powerstrokes. Everyone else helps me with all of my marine problems so i am glad to return the favor.

[38fountainSC]

I had to replace mine do to intermittent stalling Problem. $149.00

[Birdog]

My 2000 PSd has become a real btch to start in the cold unless it's plugged in.
I replaced the solenoid for the glow plugs..It may have helped, A little
Any Ideas ?......Thanx

[fixxxer22]

My 2000 PSd has become a real btch to start in the cold unless it's plugged in.
I replaced the solenoid for the glow plugs..It may have helped, A little
Any Ideas ?......Thanx

How many miles and do you have a multimeter handy?

[Birdog]

How many miles and do you have a multimeter handy?


123,000....I have a multimeter

[fixxxer22]

Set your multimeter to the lowest scale of resistance (we are going to check continuity) disconnect the harnesses from the valve cover gaskets. on each bank there will be 2 larger pins on the each side of the connector cavity. those are the glow plug pins there will be four in each cavity. check their restance to ground each should be 1-2 ohms and have continuity to ground (b-)

if they all check out the next thing would require a dealership scanner. you would want to perform a injector buzz test cold and see if the injectors are sticking cold.

[Seafordguy]

Well - bad news Fixxxer - last night must have been a fluke. It ran like before today and got so bad that I barely got it home. Sometimes it wouldn't accelerate past 20MPH.

I am back to thinking it is the pedal. Some pedal points there seems to be NO response, and then all of a sudden a little response, etc.....

[fixxxer22]

Was the sensor disconnected the entire time?

[Seafordguy]

Was the sensor disconnected the entire time?

YEah - sure was....

[fixxxer22]

I am wondering if i was accurate in stating that you could leave it disconnected for that long of time. I have never actually left one undone fo that long of time. I could not find a reason for it to matter though. if the symptoms went away when you at first unplugged it i would still replace it. plug it back in for a day then unplug it again and see what happens.

[38fountainSC]

I also had the valve cover gasket go bad that caused one injector not to work making it run like sh**, also barley making it back home. This was an intermittent issue some times running good sometimes not so good. codes came up #4 injector bad. Inspected gasket and could see burnt wires. Wires for glow plugs and injectors are molded into the gasket.

I thought when icp goes bad computer runs on default mode.

[Seafordguy]

I am wondering if i was accurate in stating that you could leave it disconnected for that long of time. I have never actually left one undone fo that long of time. I could not find a reason for it to matter though. if the symptoms went away when you at first unplugged it i would still replace it. plug it back in for a day then unplug it again and see what happens.

Alright - new update. Ran it this morning with the ICP unplugged; ran like crap. Did the pedal/cruise control trick - still ran like crap.

Plugged the ICP sensor back in, and it ran like it did a few days ago which was just some mild hesitation.

What does everyone think - should I start by replacing that sensor?

[fixxxer22]

It seems to be your problem cause by symptom. Do you have access to a scanner with a datastream so we can accurately check for bias. I am wanting to see the icp pressure and voltage data.

[Seafordguy]

It seems to be your problem cause by symptom. Do you have access to a scanner with a datastream so we can accurately check for bias. I am wanting to see the icp pressure and voltage data.

I have access to a OBDII scanner, but I don't believe it can stream data.

BUT - there was a brand new ICP on ebay with an hour left with free shipping for $100 bucks so I bought it. If it doesn't fix the problem, I am only out $100 bucks. I am not one to just throw parts at it until I stumble on the right one but I don't feel horrible replacing a sensor that might go bad on me anyways....

[fixxxer22]

They go bad all of the time in my line of work (but i fix them every day) give it a shot. disconnect the batteries overnight to clear the keep alive data and let me know what happens.

[Seafordguy]

They go bad all of the time in my line of work (but i fix them every day) give it a shot. disconnect the batteries overnight to clear the keep alive data and let me know what happens.

Will Do - Thanks. Like I said - for 100 bucks, I'll just consider it preventative maintenance if it doesn't cure the problem...

[fixxxer22]

And if it does not we will go from there.

[Seafordguy]

Replaced it today, put about 100 miles on it with no problems.

The old sensor had oil in it.....

None in the sensor.

[fixxxer22]

The sensor is in the high pressure oil stream. so there will be oil on the backside of the sensor (the port with the threads). I messed with a truck here yesterday and disconnected the sensor. The truck starts to learn from no input after so long and started acting funny. So as far as diagnosis goes the sensor can only be disconnected for a few minutes until the truck starts to adapt to no input and act accordingly.

I am glad you got it fixed. at a dealer you would have been looking at a hour diag and hour to replace the sensor and re-test. Also i beleive that sensor is over $200.

Glad you found your problem cause!

[Seafordguy]

The sensor is in the high pressure oil stream. so there will be oil on the backside of the sensor (the port with the threads). I messed with a truck here yesterday and disconnected the sensor. The truck starts to learn from no input after so long and started acting funny. So as far as diagnosis goes the sensor can only be disconnected for a few minutes until the truck starts to adapt to no input and act accordingly.

I am glad you got it fixed. at a dealer you would have been looking at a hour diag and hour to replace the sensor and re-test. Also i beleive that sensor is over $200.

Glad you found your problem cause!

I don't go to the dealer after they tried to charge me $675 to replace the front cable on my Parking Brake.

Thanks again for your help here!!!!

[fixxxer22]

How is she doin Seafordguy?

[Seafordguy]

How is she doin Seafordguy?

Hasn't missed a beat yet. Several hundred miles on it at this point.

I can't tell you how much I appreciate it - such an easy fix:sifone:

[ao31]

Nice work boys!

[fixxxer22]

Hasn't missed a beat yet. Several hundred miles on it at this point.

I can't tell you how much I appreciate it - such an easy fix:sifone:

Just glad to pay the favor back. i am in the middle of engine and fiberglass issues that everyone has been so awesome in helping me. Thanks SOS

[Stwdpaint]

Hello Fixxxer22, I recently bought a 2000 E350 van with a 7.3PSD and it ran beautifully when I test drove it. Shortly after I bought it I started to get a hesitation under part throttle. When it starts the chugging it also smokes out the tailpipe ( white/blueish smoke) and you get an overwhelming smell of diesel in the van. It will run ok under a very light throttle and the chugging goes away when you put the pedal to the floor. The turbo spools and it takes off like a rocket. I had the dogbox off the other day and noticed when the motor starts smoking and chugging you can see smoke puffing out of the connection where the drivers side up tube goes into the turbo Y tube. My problem sounded like the one described in this thread except for the no smoke symptom.
Any help you can give I would really appreciate it. Thanks.

[fund razor]

Just in case he doesn't respond right away:
http://www.powerstrokenation.com/

[Stwdpaint]

Thanks I'll check it out.