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2112
02-07-2010, 01:04 AM
Any suggestions on pulling tape and not peeling up the paint you just laid down which overlaps onto the tape?

I have used a razor blade to cut it but that is very time consuming and easy to Fubar it up. I also have pulled it wet to keep it from tearing, also easy to Fubar and hard when you do 2 coats.

I want to put down a couple coats of Interlux "Brightside" with anti-slip.

Any suggestions?

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Trim'd Up
02-07-2010, 06:02 AM
I have always just pulled it kinda toward the painted area when it's still wet.

insanity
02-07-2010, 07:35 AM
Are you using just masking tape or masking tape on top of fine-line tape?

glassdave
02-07-2010, 09:32 AM
is this on something you've already painted or something you are about to paint? If its not yet painted make sure the surface is completley prepped and sanded and i would also use an adheasion promotor. Pulling wet can help on these high build/high solid type products but its tricky.

MarylandMark
02-07-2010, 10:33 AM
I just painted some trim in my house and had the same issue but didn't want to post- some thing about home improvements gets these guys britches in a bunch.

jwurl
02-07-2010, 10:41 AM
You need to use 3m blue fine line tape. It is made out of plastic instead of paper and pulls right off when the paint is still tacky. Once completely dry it will still pull off, but may leave a rougher edge. It is avaliable at any Automotive paint store. Jeff Wurl

runninhotracing
02-07-2010, 11:17 AM
Any Blue Fine Line or Green Auto tape is always a plus and helps. I never pull straight up, I always pull the tape sideways, literally so my knuckles are dragging along the boat and not pulling straight up. The razor cutting the edge in thicker areas is always worth the time to cut along the tape, rather than pulling a chunk of fresh paint. Bob

2112
02-07-2010, 03:34 PM
is this on something you've already painted or something you are about to paint? If its not yet painted make sure the surface is completley prepped and sanded and i would also use an adheasion promotor. Pulling wet can help on these high build/high solid type products but its tricky.

It is on a previously painted surface (Concept). Surface is sanded but I did not know about an adhesion promoter. Who makes that?



Are you using just masking tape or masking tape on top of fine-line tape?


You need to use 3m blue fine line tape. It is made out of plastic instead of paper and pulls right off when the paint is still tacky. Once completely dry it will still pull off, but may leave a rougher edge. It is avaliable at any Automotive paint store. Jeff Wurl



I was planning to use the lime green masking tape (3M) How does the fine-line tape differ? Lower profile? It is OK if there is a difference in finish heights, I am adding it for the non-slip properties.

Someone advised that I pull the tape by folding it over as I pulled and pull away (or down).

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glassdave
02-07-2010, 04:03 PM
It is on a previously painted surface (Concept). Surface is sanded but I did not know about an adhesion promoter. Who makes that?








I was planning to use the lime green masking tape (3M) How does the fine-line tape differ? Lower profile? It is OK if there is a difference in finish heights, I am adding it for the non-slip properties.

Someone advised that I pull the tape by folding it over as I pulled and pull away (or down).

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the adhesion promoter i like is called Bulldog (there all pretty much the same though) it comes in an aerosol and just about any body shop supplier should carry it. SEM has a good one as well, i use it on all jobs.

The fine line you want is a 3M's green fine line, the other stuff is green masking (kinda confusing but the supplier will know). There is also a blue fine line, the two fine line tapes differ in that the blue is better for multiple radius taping like flames and the green fine is great for longer straighter lines. The green masking you will use to back tape the fine line as well as with masking paper.

Yes it does help to pull the tape at a sharp angle to the surface to "cut" the paint. I usually pull everything but the fineline then do that by itself.

2112
02-07-2010, 11:48 PM
Does the fine-line tape actually help you not lift the new paint or is it just more accurate?

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glassdave
02-07-2010, 11:53 PM
a little of both actually. It has a sharper profile then paper based masking tape and helps to score or start that edge a bit. Paper based tape can also leave a less then crisp edge and will allow paint to creap under it a bit if its not fully burnished down.

2112
02-08-2010, 12:04 AM
Sold.

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Lee
02-08-2010, 08:09 AM
I just painted some trim in my house and had the same issue but didn't want to post- some thing about home improvements gets these guys britches in a bunch.

A little trick for that is to smear a very light amount of paintable latex caulk over the edge of the tape where it is to be painted, when you pull it you will have a very nice and sharp edge with no bleed through.

DAREDEVIL
02-08-2010, 01:05 PM
Always pull away from the new paint with in 30 min. after painting !!!!!

the paint still has to fresh but not tacy ! Thats how painters do it !!

cougarman
02-08-2010, 01:12 PM
a little of both actually. It has a sharper profile then paper based masking tape and helps to score or start that edge a bit. Paper based tape can also leave a less then crisp edge and will allow paint to creap under it a bit if its not fully burnished down.



Dave,

Ever seen this : http://www.frogtape.com/


Been seeing it allot lately,.............supposed to be the new tape
as far as paint blocking technolgy and not allowing the paint to creep or bleed underneath.

Anyways just an FYI if it applies to any of you.


Jon

2112
02-08-2010, 03:16 PM
Always pull away from the new paint with in 30 min. after painting !!!!!

the paint still has to fresh but not tacy ! Thats how painters do it !!

Well that is how I have usually done it in the past, Since I need 2 coats, I guess I tape it up 2 times.


Dave,

Ever seen this : http://www.frogtape.com/


Been seeing it allot lately,.............supposed to be the new tape
as far as paint blocking technolgy and not allowing the paint to creep or bleed underneath.

Anyways just an FYI if it applies to any of you.


Jon


Does it say Latex only.

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glassdave
02-08-2010, 04:30 PM
Dave,

Ever seen this : http://www.frogtape.com/


Been seeing it allot lately,.............supposed to be the new tape
as far as paint blocking technolgy and not allowing the paint to creep or bleed underneath.

Anyways just an FYI if it applies to any of you.


Jon

cool stuff, latex only though. Its a tech'ed up version of Lee's trick. Thanks :cool:

wonder if it would work with water borne paint? interesting. To be honest i rarely (if ever) have tape probs. Been doing this so long its second nature to steer around them. :sifone:

runninhotracing
02-08-2010, 08:14 PM
Always pull away from the new paint with in 30 min. after painting !!!!!

the paint still has to fresh but not tacy ! Thats how painters do it !!

R U sure ???????????????????????
If so Scott after we clear the deck will wait 30 mins and pull the paper & tape and let ya know how it turned out LMAO :toetap05::eek:

2112
02-09-2010, 06:01 PM
the adhesion promoter i like is called Bulldog

Just bought some. Says to lay down two coats. Seems odd to use a rattle can product. Any tips with this?

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glassdave
02-09-2010, 06:23 PM
apply light coats, just dust them on and dont let it wet out. I warm the can up a bit and it seems to atomize pretty well. You really only need a few light coats.

DAREDEVIL
02-09-2010, 11:39 PM
R U sure ???????????????????????
If so Scott after we clear the deck will wait 30 mins and pull the paper & tape and let ya know how it turned out LMAO :toetap05::eek:

mmmmhhhhhh, thats what my painter says and does...works fine ?!:confused:

He just painted my old Camaro...it was red ,,,,,,,YACK

DAREDEVIL
02-09-2010, 11:43 PM
before,,,,,

2112
02-10-2010, 05:40 PM
apply light coats, just dust them on and dont let it wet out. I warm the can up a bit and it seems to atomize pretty well. You really only need a few light coats.

Thank you. :USA:

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THEJOKER
02-10-2010, 06:36 PM
I'm sure anybody that has ever raced an offshore powerboat thought this thread was the same thing I did!

glassdave
02-10-2010, 07:30 PM
I'm sure anybody that has ever raced an offshore powerboat thought this thread was the same thing I did!

lol good one :D 'If that was the case i would be of no help here

the only race i ever counted off right was the one lapper out to Bimini and back. . . . :sifone:

7m61-lgI38k

THEJOKER
02-10-2010, 08:50 PM
lol good one :D 'If that was the case i would be of no help here

the only race i ever counted off right was the one lapper out to Bimini and back. . . . :sifone:

7m61-lgI38k classic right there!

Geronimo36
02-12-2010, 05:00 PM
A friend taught me a little painting trick when I was painting my transom...

On the edges, instead of laying tape down flat, he told me to extend the tape past the edge, then fold it back and attach the masking paper to the tape.

He said that when you pull the tape it won't have a sharp edge and reduces pull-up and blends the corner better.

I tried it and it works and that's how I tape edges now!!! :)

2112
02-12-2010, 06:54 PM
A friend taught me a little painting trick when I was painting my transom...

On the edges, instead of laying tape down flat, he told me to extend the tape past the edge, then fold it back and attach the masking paper to the tape.

He said that when you pull the tape it won't have a sharp edge and reduces pull-up and blends the corner better.

I tried it and it works and that's how I tape edges now!!! :)

So you are painting right up to paper instead of tape? It sounds like it could be tough to lay down nicely.

Which tape did you use?

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insanity
02-13-2010, 01:53 AM
So you are painting right up to paper instead of tape? It sounds like it could be tough to lay down nicely.

Which tape did you use?

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The paper kind of 'shadows' the tape line, so you don't get the hard line that has to be blended after the fact. It's one of those things that's easier to show than explain in words...

Geronimo36
02-13-2010, 12:40 PM
The paper kind of 'shadows' the tape line, so you don't get the hard line that has to be blended after the fact. It's one of those things that's easier to show than explain in words...

Exactly! :)

glassdave
02-13-2010, 09:01 PM
A friend taught me a little painting trick when I was painting my transom...

On the edges, instead of laying tape down flat, he told me to extend the tape past the edge, then fold it back and attach the masking paper to the tape.

He said that when you pull the tape it won't have a sharp edge and reduces pull-up and blends the corner better.

I tried it and it works and that's how I tape edges now!!! :)

The technique is called soft lining and works best on straight edges like the corner of a transom. 3M makes a foam tape that also has the same effect but is bendable. This is some handy stuff.

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3MAutomotive/Aftermarket/Products/Product-Catalog/?PC_7_RJH9U5230GE3E02LECFTDQCEK3_nid=NM6X2GJFQ8gsS07L5SX2K0gl2BCQRJKTPDbl

2112
02-15-2010, 04:45 PM
Dave,

On the fine line tape, is there a length of time you should not exceed between laying it down and painting? For instance, can you tape it up one weekend and paint the next?

On the Bulldog adhesion promoter, How long do you wait before painting after applying?

Thanks for your advice. :USA:

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glassdave
02-16-2010, 01:09 AM
I'm not sure what the max time is on the fine line but i have had it on spanning several weeks without any problem. The biggest thing to avoid is large thermal fluctuations and heavy moisture for extended periods of time, like leaving it outside (which I'm sure your not). On the bulldog i usually lay on several dust coats about a half hour before i am spraying. That seems to give me a nice virgin surface to spray on. You don't want to wait to long with this stuff, in fact i think the recommended technique is to lay on two dust coats and let them tack then apply one more just prior to paint.

jeff1000man
02-16-2010, 01:12 AM
Wha do I use if it has been on for at least a year? :iamwithstupid:

DAREDEVIL
02-16-2010, 01:26 AM
Wha do I use if it has been on for at least a year? :iamwithstupid:

mineral spirits or WD 40 !!!!!!:cheers2:

2112
02-16-2010, 02:17 AM
I'm not sure what the max time is on the fine line but i have had it on spanning several weeks without any problem. The biggest thing to avoid is large thermal fluctuations and heavy moisture for extended periods of time, like leaving it outside (which I'm sure your not). On the bulldog i usually lay on several dust coats about a half hour before i am spraying. That seems to give me a nice virgin surface to spray on. You don't want to wait to long with this stuff, in fact i think the recommended technique is to lay on two dust coats and let them tack then apply one more just prior to paint.

Yup, In a heated shop and I am only talking one week between the two.

Thanks again. :)

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2112
03-02-2010, 01:14 AM
The 3M Fine-line tape is the sh1t! :)

It laid down very easy, allowed a ton of tugging with out deforming. Stuck great and would stick again great if it needed to be moved.

Absolutely no bleeding. It pulled up cleanly without any tearing. Made the job go great and saved a ton of time with no fixing when done.

thanks for the advice. :USA:

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