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t500hps
01-12-2010, 09:18 PM
??? for FORD diesel service tech


I've had a 2007 F350 dually 6.0 diesel for a couple years but have only put 10,000 miles on it.....the alternator has quit but I'm at 38 months of a 36 month warranty on that item :angry-smiley-038:. Is there a fuse/circuit breaker anywhere that could have tripped? I can't find any info in the owners manual about it and wanted to know before I buy a $400 alternator.
Also, It appears I do not have an engine block heater.....is that something that can be added? Seems it would have the "base" components already installed or maybe not. If nothing is already in there I imagine it would be a B I T C H to add now.

Thanks for any help you can offer

Steve 1
01-12-2010, 09:23 PM
Try in here:

http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=7

MahopacMarine
01-12-2010, 10:00 PM
Give a try over at Powerstroke.org as well. Those guys are pretty savvy with a few techs that chime in.

Wobble
01-12-2010, 10:01 PM
Have you talked to your dealer? I have found mine to be remarkably flexible regarding warranty. Also check your delivery mileage when new, the 36k warranty should be added on to that.

As far as the block heater goes, I have been told that all 6.0's have the heater element installed, but not all have the cord.

Found this thread with some good info http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/698953-6-0-block-heater.html

Seafordguy
01-12-2010, 10:42 PM
As far as the block heater goes, I have been told that all 6.0's have the heater element installed, but not all have the cord.



I hate petty crap like that. It's a 50k truck, it is ****ty of Ford to skip the $0.10 cord

t500hps
01-12-2010, 10:55 PM
Have you talked to your dealer? I have found mine to be remarkably flexible regarding warranty. Also check your delivery mileage when new, the 36k warranty should be added on to that.

As far as the block heater goes, I have been told that all 6.0's have the heater element installed, but not all have the cord.

Found this thread with some good info http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/698953-6-0-block-heater.html

I called 2 local dealers and asked about warranty coverage considering age....neither one seemed willing to work with me (over the phone anyway). Considering I show up once a year for an oil change and state inspection they don't exactly know me either.
I checked for a block heater too...I have the block heater but not the cord...apparently they are a little over $100 bucks for the cord but then I'm in business.

Seafordguy
01-12-2010, 11:03 PM
I called 2 local dealers and asked about warranty coverage considering age....neither one seemed willing to work with me (over the phone anyway). Considering I show up once a year for an oil change and state inspection they don't exactly know me either.
I checked for a block heater too...I have the block heater but not the cord...apparently they are a little over $100 bucks for the cord but then I'm in business.

what do you need a block heater for anyways? You live in Richmond, and I thought the truck was basically a tow vehicle anyways?

Dude! Sweet!
01-12-2010, 11:05 PM
I'm going to make some calls this week. My 2004 6.0 started laying down on me and occasionally blowing grey (fuel-ish) looking smoke when it does. It's got 70k on the clock and had a new turbo under warranty at 30k. I love the truck, but pretty silly that a diesel that's supposed to run 250k plus is coming unglued at under a 100k.

t500hps
01-12-2010, 11:15 PM
what do you need a block heater for anyways? You live in Richmond, and I thought the truck was basically a tow vehicle anyways?

It is, but they don't like to sit all winter so I try to drive it once a week or so......usually put 300-400 miles on it through the winter! :)

buck
01-12-2010, 11:39 PM
Little known fact...

Ford severed all ties with International concerning this engine due to the problems with it. This happened in late 2008. Between the two of them they quit taking care of any issues out of warranty on this engine when this announcement was made.

Around March or April of 2009 Ford issued a program to go retroactive on any previously known issues with this engine. In other words, just because the truck/engine was out or warranty it didn't mean you automatically weren't covered.

How do I know this?

My 2003 went in the shop this past spring with blown head gaskets. Odometer showed around 60k at the time. Mileage wasn't an issue with the warranty, but it was about 5 yrs and 7 months old. Initially I was out of luck. Service manager asked me to lay low for a week knowing that Ford was getting ready to announce a new plan helping owners of this engine. In short, I paid $800 out of pocket for what was initially going to be about a $5,000 job.

I didn't like the fact that I was dealing with it on a truck with 60k miles on it, but I did like that they stepped up knowing it was an inherent problem with this engine.

Food for thought...

Seafordguy
01-12-2010, 11:39 PM
It is, but they don't like to sit all winter so I try to drive it once a week or so......usually put 300-400 miles on it through the winter! :)

IN all seriousness, I have never plugged mine in. When we have colder weather like we have lately I let the wait to start light go out and then wait an extra 5-20 seconds depending on how cold it has gotten - never had any problems and I am within a couple hundred miles away of the 100k mark.

Sydwayz
01-13-2010, 12:21 AM
I have a diesel/truck mechanic in Richmond that I like Russ. Let me know if you want the contact info.

2112
01-13-2010, 01:47 AM
I'm going to make some calls this week. My 2004 6.0 started laying down on me and occasionally blowing grey (fuel-ish) looking smoke when it does. It's got 70k on the clock and had a new turbo under warranty at 30k. I love the truck, but pretty silly that a diesel that's supposed to run 250k plus is coming unglued at under a 100k.

EGR recycling valve.

On the alternator. I lost one at 35,900 miles and got it covered :rolleyes:

.

cigdaze
01-13-2010, 09:18 AM
Alternator: Not too many things can truly go wrong and especially not at those low miles. However, given the age there may be some corrosion-related open circuit condition present. Also, check the voltage regulator.

Dude,
I'm 99% sure that your issues are EGR-related. And that's an emissions component which means that it's covered even out of warranty and you don't have to pay the $100 diesel warranty deductable. How do I know? I've been through two of them (before my EGR connector somehow fell out of its socket).

Chris
01-13-2010, 09:31 AM
I just stuck a $300 EGR valve in one of mine with that common EGR set of symptoms. Did nothing. I've been pulling my hair out on this one looking for the problem. I dread dealing with the dealership. But sometimes you gotta.

On the alternator- fix it. It's either a regulator or a diode. Fields and stators rarely go bad. They either fail right away or work forever. I have a local electric shop that does the R&R and a complete rebuild with those two components and a set of bearings for $120.

JupiterSunsation
01-13-2010, 10:08 AM
Have you talked to your dealer? I have found mine to be remarkably flexible regarding warranty. Also check your delivery mileage when new, the 36k warranty should be added on to that.

As far as the block heater goes, I have been told that all 6.0's have the heater element installed, but not all have the cord.

Found this thread with some good info http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/698953-6-0-block-heater.html


Wobble he is out of months not miles....truck only has 10K on it but is 38 months old.

Dude! Sweet!
01-13-2010, 11:03 AM
Thanks guys... EGR is one of the things I'd seen on the diesel forums. I've got to try to get it in this week. Just a pain since my only other options as far as having something to drive is to stick my wife at home and take her Tahoe or drive a big block Camaro on slicks...

ZBODaytona
01-13-2010, 12:37 PM
Sure yours isn't the head gasket? Mine is in the shop now for the second set. Dealer thought it might be the EGR. Egr and head gaskets have very similar symptoms. This time the dealer is putting in the head studs i bought and should solve any future problems. The only time it showed weird smoke was when the truck was very cold in cold weather, after it hit normal operating temps there were no signs other than losing coolant under high loads and high boost.



I just stuck a $300 EGR valve in one of mine with that common EGR set of symptoms. Did nothing. I've been pulling my hair out on this one looking for the problem. I dread dealing with the dealership. But sometimes you gotta.

On the alternator- fix it. It's either a regulator or a diode. Fields and stators rarely go bad. They either fail right away or work forever. I have a local electric shop that does the R&R and a complete rebuild with those two components and a set of bearings for $120.

cigdaze
01-13-2010, 01:12 PM
Good point, ZBO.

Coolant loss at high load/boost is usually the heads.
Consistent coolant loss (accompanied by a horrific smell) is usually the EGR cooler. There's a recent TSB out on this.

Chris
01-13-2010, 01:31 PM
Not losing any coolant.

Dude! Sweet!
01-13-2010, 01:59 PM
I haven't looked to see if I've lost coolant... I'll be doing that at lunch. No warnings and temp guage still in range though. Smoke seems like fuel to me. Almost like a dopped cyl.

Chris
01-13-2010, 02:09 PM
The 6.0's are notorious for glow plug harness failures- especially on the right side. They melt.

Woody
01-13-2010, 02:30 PM
Russ, Sanco Rebuilders on Hull Street can probably fix it. 232-6779. Pull it and take it to them. They're fast and cheap....

Wobble
01-13-2010, 02:31 PM
I called 2 local dealers and asked about warranty coverage considering age....neither one seemed willing to work with me (over the phone anyway). Considering I show up once a year for an oil change and state inspection they don't exactly know me either.
I checked for a block heater too...I have the block heater but not the cord...apparently they are a little over $100 bucks for the cord but then I'm in business.

That thread I linked to stated that the cords are cheaper from an International dealer

Dude! Sweet!
01-13-2010, 02:33 PM
The 6.0's are notorious for glow plug harness failures- especially on the right side. They melt.

Why didn't I buy my buddies Cat powered F650 last year when I had the chance?! :sifone:

Wobble
01-13-2010, 02:41 PM
Hoy about a new heater cord for $16?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-6.0-&-6.4-L-Powerstroke-Diesel-Block-Heater-Cord_W0QQitemZ150400870513QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20091229?IMSfp=TL09122918900 8r29686

Chris
01-13-2010, 02:43 PM
Why didn't I buy my buddies Cat powered F650 last year when I had the chance?! :sifone:

Wait until you start fixing a CAT. Lost my dipstick. $185 for 3' of steel tape with a cap on the end.

Wobble
01-13-2010, 02:48 PM
Wait until you start fixing a CAT. Lost my dipstick. $185 for 3' of steel tape with a cap on the end.

That is a fact, late model Cats do not live up to the reputation of the brand, you will however pay a premium for the name.

Dude! Sweet!
01-13-2010, 03:14 PM
No kidding... Learn something new every day. I commute 80 miles a day 3 days a week, so wouldn't have been entirely practical anyhow...

Chris, you lost your dipstick? What does that have to do with your truck? :sifone:

Wobble
01-13-2010, 10:24 PM
No kidding... Learn something new every day. I commute 80 miles a day 3 days a week, so wouldn't have been entirely practical anyhow...

Chris, you lost your dipstick? What does that have to do with your truck? :sifone:

I think he was out filming synthetic oil commercials with it:cheers2:

Chris
01-13-2010, 11:35 PM
Nah- just a dumbass. Checked the oil, went inside the truck stop to get a gallon. 20 minutes later I forgot and didn't stick it back in the tube before dropping the hood. Won't make that mistake again.

sector
01-14-2010, 08:43 AM
To check for EGR cooler leaking, remove the EGR valve and raise the rear of the truck. You usually can see coolant in the EGR valve area if the cooler is leaking. Coolers have a pretty high failure rate.

Dude! Sweet!
01-14-2010, 02:02 PM
Thanks!

Local Ford dealer can't get me in for too weeks to do the diagnostic...

ZBODaytona
01-14-2010, 03:45 PM
Thanks!

Local Ford dealer can't get me in for too weeks to do the diagnostic...

Seems like the standard response. I got the same thing, of course i did drop off around Christmas time. Hope to have it back tomorrow or the next week,

Chris
01-14-2010, 04:46 PM
Not around here. Their shops are as lightly populated as their lots.

Dude! Sweet!
01-14-2010, 05:09 PM
I was pretty suprised. I was talking to another site member who's a GM tech and he says he's just hangin' around playin' with his ass all day... Plus, there's no work! :sifone:

MarylandMark
01-14-2010, 08:25 PM
I've never plugged my truck in, but my buddy did. 1KW heater- ran it about 10 hours a night all month. He got a little surprise when his electric bill showed up!

Dude! Sweet!
01-19-2010, 02:01 PM
So looks like the EGR may have fixed part of the problem. Still get some smoke under acceleration.

But here's the kicker, something that the truck has done from time to time for the past couple years...

If I accelerate quickly, pop off the throttle and go right back to the throttle, the motor goes dead. I just watch the tach fall to idle for like 5 seconds. I lift and roll into it and it usually starts accelerating again...

Any guesses? Almost seems like an ECU issue?

Magic Medicine
02-08-2010, 11:07 AM
So looks like the EGR may have fixed part of the problem. Still get some smoke under acceleration.

But here's the kicker, something that the truck has done from time to time for the past couple years...

If I accelerate quickly, pop off the throttle and go right back to the throttle, the motor goes dead. I just watch the tach fall to idle for like 5 seconds. I lift and roll into it and it usually starts accelerating again...

Any guesses? Almost seems like an ECU issue?

Unplug the egr and never look back!

Dude! Sweet!
02-08-2010, 12:33 PM
Yah, that's the plan for next time I guess. Depends on what CA does with diesel emission testing though.

fund razor
02-08-2010, 12:59 PM
Unplug the egr and never look back!

I am doing a lot of reading at The Diesel Place, having bought a D Max last week. Seems like alot of EGR blocking going on with the GMCs. The Fords EGRs seem to "fall off." :D

cigdaze
02-08-2010, 01:37 PM
Mine fell off.

:D

MarylandMark
02-08-2010, 02:25 PM
Anyone got pics of 6.0 block heater cord hooked up? It sounds like in 06 they only shipped the cord to "cold weather" states and Maryland wasn't on the list. I've never needed to plug mine in before, but a dead battery in 18 degrees was not fun. Jumping it would have been a lot easier if she was warm.

fund razor
02-08-2010, 02:52 PM
They are on the passenger side, near the battery and below the coolant tank on a duramax. Not sure on a Ford. But there's this: http://motors.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_kw=new&_kw=6.0&_kw=block&_kw=heater&_kw=cord

Knot 4 Me
02-08-2010, 03:14 PM
I am doing a lot of reading at The Diesel Place, having bought a D Max last week. Seems like alot of EGR blocking going on with the GMCs. The Fords EGRs seem to "fall off." :DMy EGR wiring harness "fell off" while the motor was in the closed position. Predator tuner made sure the DIC had no clue such a travesty took place! :driving:

MarylandMark
02-08-2010, 03:26 PM
Found this pic online but haven't looked to hard under the hood to find it.

I was told if it had a cord, the cord would be near the passenger side tow hook and there isn't one there.

fund razor
02-08-2010, 03:44 PM
Is Diesel Stop the ford equivalent of Diesel Place? If so... they may have a pic. I was able to find a pic of a cord in the factory location on a truck like mine on Diesel Place.

cigdaze
02-08-2010, 04:02 PM
Is Diesel Stop the ford equivalent of Diesel Place? If so... they may have a pic. I was able to find a pic of a cord in the factory location on a truck like mine on Diesel Place.

Yes indeed. It's a great resource for Ford PSD owners.

Wobble
02-08-2010, 04:07 PM
Found this pic online but haven't looked to hard under the hood to find it.

I was told if it had a cord, the cord would be near the passenger side tow hook and there isn't one there.That pic shows the starter motor. The cord plugs in just above and behind it.

MarylandMark
02-08-2010, 04:23 PM
Thanks! I thought the red part of the cord plugged in to the red circle in this pic?

I'm not very handy with tools as you can tell... SOB's should have bumped the price up $100 and had it zip tied like the other ones!

Wobble
02-08-2010, 04:34 PM
Thanks! I thought the red part of the cord plugged in to the red circle in this pic?

I'm not very handy with tools as you can tell... SOB's should have bumped the price up $100 and had it zip tied like the other ones!

Thats where it goes, might want to get a can of carb cleaner and spray the gunk out of the socket before screwing the cord in.

fund razor
02-08-2010, 04:35 PM
Sure looks like a match with that threaded collar.

Magic Medicine
02-09-2010, 11:59 AM
I am doing a lot of reading at The Diesel Place, having bought a D Max last week. Seems like alot of EGR blocking going on with the GMCs. The Fords EGRs seem to "fall off." :D

Don't do too much reading over there, you will think every diesel is a POS:sifone:.

D Maxes are known to have injector issues, pretty sure GM has some type of extended warranty on them. Pretty solid trucks overall.

I'll stick with my Fords though, they are paying my bills:sifone:

Knot 4 Me
02-09-2010, 12:09 PM
Don't do too much reading over there, you will think every diesel is a POS:sifone:.

D Maxes are known to have injector issues, pretty sure GM has some type of extended warranty on them. Pretty solid trucks overall.

I'll stick with my Fords though, they are paying my bills:sifone:The first generation DMax (LB7) had injector issues and that is where the extended warranty came in. Loved my LLY. Stupid on my part to get rid of the truck.

fund razor
02-09-2010, 12:17 PM
I like the sound of that, considering I found out today that the water pump is 400 bucks. :(

I found a diesel tech kid. Seems ok. Nice shop. Nice personal trucks.

Wobble
02-09-2010, 12:33 PM
I like the sound of that, considering I found out today that the water pump is 400 bucks. :(

I found a diesel tech kid. Seems ok. Nice shop. Nice personal trucks.

the pump is about 180 + labor

http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?A=TFW43273_0247999616&An=599001+102006+50030+2030047

break out the wrenches:cheers2:

imco offshore
02-09-2010, 12:44 PM
i was going down the hi-way in my ford psd and the waterpump pully broke out the center,,stuck,,had to special order..3 days in nowhere..I still like my ford.

fixxxer22
02-09-2010, 08:46 PM
??? for FORD diesel service tech


I've had a 2007 F350 dually 6.0 diesel for a couple years but have only put 10,000 miles on it.....the alternator has quit but I'm at 38 months of a 36 month warranty on that item :angry-smiley-038:. Is there a fuse/circuit breaker anywhere that could have tripped? I can't find any info in the owners manual about it and wanted to know before I buy a $400 alternator.
Also, It appears I do not have an engine block heater.....is that something that can be added? Seems it would have the "base" components already installed or maybe not. If nothing is already in there I imagine it would be a B I T C H to add now.

Thanks for any help you can offer


Ok, i am a ford certified master diesel tech and a boat enthusiest. Every 6.0 is equipped with a block heater but not a cord. you need to just order the cord and follow the picture in the bag to install it. it can be a bear getting it throught the cradle. and i would only reccomend the ford genuine cord. your truck is not equpped with the cold weather package. i doubt you lost a fuse. but if you are going to replace the alternator go to an o'riley they offer a higher amperage alternator for less money.

also, everyone on here feel free to pm me with questions if needed i live and breathe the 7.3, 6.0, 6.4 and the new 6.7 It is all i do each and every day. i would love to review this entire thread and help but you guys seem to all be pointed in the correct direction. the 6.0 can be a great truck and ford is superior in initial quality. you just have to get over the little kinks. also, if you are close to me i can install an egr block off for half the cost of the kit. i have a talented machinist that makes stainless plugs in the many many egr coolers i have under my toolbox. that takes care of many things and brings them back to to not swallowing egr and acting more like a 7.3 I also love the 6.0 so much that i fix them and drive one every day.

Chris
02-10-2010, 10:00 AM
Ok, i am a ford certified master diesel tech and a boat enthusiest. .



also, everyone on here feel free to pm me with questions if needed i live and breathe the 7.3, 6.0, 6.4 and the new 6.7 .

Congratulations- you've just become one of the most popular guys on the site. ;) I hope you have plenty of spare time for all your new friends.


...and, welcome to the site!

Magic Medicine
02-11-2010, 02:57 PM
Ok, i am a ford certified master diesel tech and a boat enthusiest. Every 6.0 is equipped with a block heater but not a cord. you need to just order the cord and follow the picture in the bag to install it. it can be a bear getting it throught the cradle. and i would only reccomend the ford genuine cord. your truck is not equpped with the cold weather package. i doubt you lost a fuse. but if you are going to replace the alternator go to an o'riley they offer a higher amperage alternator for less money.

also, everyone on here feel free to pm me with questions if needed i live and breathe the 7.3, 6.0, 6.4 and the new 6.7 It is all i do each and every day. i would love to review this entire thread and help but you guys seem to all be pointed in the correct direction. the 6.0 can be a great truck and ford is superior in initial quality. you just have to get over the little kinks. also, if you are close to me i can install an egr block off for half the cost of the kit. i have a talented machinist that makes stainless plugs in the many many egr coolers i have under my toolbox. that takes care of many things and brings them back to to not swallowing egr and acting more like a 7.3 I also love the 6.0 so much that i fix them and drive one every day.

You need a job:eek: :bump:

fixxxer22
02-11-2010, 03:49 PM
You need a job:eek: :bump:

Is that a question, statement or offer?:cheers2:

Dude! Sweet!
02-11-2010, 04:28 PM
Ok, i am a ford certified master diesel tech and a boat enthusiest. Every 6.0 is equipped with a block heater but not a cord. you need to just order the cord and follow the picture in the bag to install it. it can be a bear getting it throught the cradle. and i would only reccomend the ford genuine cord. your truck is not equpped with the cold weather package. i doubt you lost a fuse. but if you are going to replace the alternator go to an o'riley they offer a higher amperage alternator for less money.

also, everyone on here feel free to pm me with questions if needed i live and breathe the 7.3, 6.0, 6.4 and the new 6.7 It is all i do each and every day. i would love to review this entire thread and help but you guys seem to all be pointed in the correct direction. the 6.0 can be a great truck and ford is superior in initial quality. you just have to get over the little kinks. also, if you are close to me i can install an egr block off for half the cost of the kit. i have a talented machinist that makes stainless plugs in the many many egr coolers i have under my toolbox. that takes care of many things and brings them back to to not swallowing egr and acting more like a 7.3 I also love the 6.0 so much that i fix them and drive one every day.

Right on. Thanks Fixxer! It's funny, I flat out love my 2004 F250 6.0. Just replaced the EGR and it's running pretty good again. I considered replacing the truck with something else and I can't do it. I like the truck too much. Hopefully with some luck, I'll be able to do upgrades as needed to keep it around longer than my old Pontiac (235k when I sold it)!

Your offer and insight is greatly appreciated!

Magic Medicine
02-11-2010, 04:52 PM
Is that a question, statement or offer?:cheers2:

Question?

Magic Medicine
02-11-2010, 04:53 PM
Right on. Thanks Fixxer! It's funny, I flat out love my 2004 F250 6.0. Just replaced the EGR and it's running pretty good again. I considered replacing the truck with something else and I can't do it. I like the truck too much. Hopefully with some luck, I'll be able to do upgrades as needed to keep it around longer than my old Pontiac (235k when I sold it)!

Your offer and insight is greatly appreciated!

I love my 04 PSD as well, I am pretty close to upgrading to a 08-09.

fixxxer22
02-11-2010, 06:12 PM
Question?

Magic and dude: I would look into getting the egr deleted from your trucks. Send me your vin numbers and let me make sure you have the late build 6.0's and then I could hook you guys up with blocked up coolers and gasket sets.

Magic Medicine
02-12-2010, 11:31 AM
Magic and dude: I would look into getting the egr deleted from your trucks. Send me your vin numbers and let me make sure you have the late build 6.0's and then I could hook you guys up with blocked up coolers and gasket sets.

I am a service manager at Ford dealership, my egr has been unplugged for a couple years. Don't want to put anymore coin in this truck as a new one is
just around the corner!:cheers2:

Thanks for the offer,

PS if you are ever out of a job let me know!:cheers2:

fixxxer22
02-12-2010, 11:44 AM
I will keep that in mind. seems as though ford diesel techs are as hard to find as a trans tech. And if i am moving to your area i will be sure to look you up.

MarylandMark
02-12-2010, 11:47 AM
2006 6.0

Should I be doing EGR unplug thing?

Knot 4 Me
02-12-2010, 12:25 PM
2006 6.0

Should I be doing EGR unplug thing?Yes. You would vomit if you saw the crap they dump into your intake/engine.

fund razor
02-12-2010, 12:25 PM
It would be interesting to read a tech's take on the egr removal.

We are going to have an expanded truck and towing section soon. I think that it will be popular.

fixxxer22
02-12-2010, 01:30 PM
I HATE the EGR system. makes too much crap for the engine to swallow. It makes what is called "coking" this dark black paste. It can sometimes make deposits and get as hard as rocks and hold a valve open. If you were to continue the use of the EGR system (which is to reduce NOX emissions) in a green state i would reccomend the use of cetane booster. 1 bottle treats 4 tanks and you will see a 1mpg increase (99% of my customers do) it keeps that egr a little cleaner. the only problem with unplugging the valve is the fact that it can still blow open unde high load high boost situations. and the egr cooler has been proven to be a little problem for the 6.0 diesels. That is why i am a firm beleiver in blocking off the cooler. then the cooler cant fail and the egr valve stays plugged in and the processor opens and closes it as if it had exhaust running to it.

MarylandMark
02-12-2010, 01:33 PM
Thanks! I'll see if I can find someone that knows how to do it. Lot of the things I'm reading online are for the more tech savvy...

fixxxer22
02-12-2010, 02:04 PM
yeah, removing the intake would be a hard repair for a first timer. i would look for PSD tech.

Bill
02-12-2010, 05:01 PM
I have already had to replace the EGR vavle on my 06 Dmax with only 30K miles on it. I would like to block it, but not keen on cutting wires under the hood to fool the computer...

fixxxer22
02-12-2010, 06:22 PM
I have already had to replace the EGR vavle on my 06 Dmax with only 30K miles on it. I would like to block it, but not keen on cutting wires under the hood to fool the computer...

I feel you there! The diesel egr system was a good attempt but all the brands were starting some sort of egr system by 07. ford started in 03 and i think chevy started at the same time. dodge kept using their pollution points on thie diesels so they were forced to start in 06 or 07 (i think) The exhaust is just too full of junk for the system to work at 100% for the complete life of the vehicle. The 6.4 has a EGRDOC (exhaust gas recirculation diesel oxidation catylist) in place between the exhaust stream that leads to the egr valve and the valve. It really cleaned up the exhaust gas and made valve replacement almost a thing of the past. the new 6.7 will be equipped as well. And any dodge or chevy with a dpf prob. has them too.

MarylandMark
02-13-2010, 11:01 AM
yeah, removing the intake would be a hard repair for a first timer. i would look for PSD tech.

+1

It would never run again if I had some tools under the hood! :cheers2:

How about a list of what I should get done? 2006 F350 SRW long bed King Ranch w/70K miles. Daily driver, tow 10K LBS about 100 miles a year, haul nothing in the bed. Just had the 60K done by Ford 6 months ago and new tires at the same time. Mid grade oil (some thing "Blue" IIRC) every 5K miles.

fixxxer22
02-13-2010, 07:30 PM
+1

It would never run again if I had some tools under the hood! :cheers2:

How about a list of what I should get done? 2006 F350 SRW long bed King Ranch w/70K miles. Daily driver, tow 10K LBS about 100 miles a year, haul nothing in the bed. Just had the 60K done by Ford 6 months ago and new tires at the same time. Mid grade oil (some thing "Blue" IIRC) every 5K miles.

well, the torqshift trans has an external filter and a drainplug in the pan. Change your fluid every 30k in the trans (you will need 8 to 9 quarts) and replace the filter. Though i sound like a broken record, I would at least buy the spool to delete the egr valve or delete the cooler entirely. I would also complain of a long crank hot and see if you can get the updated STC fitting installed while under warranty. other than that i would enjoy it. I love the looks of these trucks and you have a really good looking truck. Love the 20's they are my favorite rim. those tires wear out quick but you cant beat the price. You could also be adding the trans fluid or lubricity additive from ford to help lube the fuel side of the injectors.

Magic Medicine
02-15-2010, 10:57 AM
I will keep that in mind. seems as though ford diesel techs are as hard to find as a trans tech. And if i am moving to your area i will be sure to look you up.

Thats a fact! Plenty of good boating on da BIG POND:driving:

Magic Medicine
02-15-2010, 11:01 AM
Fixxxer,

What do you think of the 6.4's???????

fixxxer22
02-15-2010, 12:09 PM
I'm ok with them. They have plenty of power. Hard to get good MPG out of them. The egr system is alot stronger. The only downfall is the DPF system (not much of a downfall but a downfall) the dpf cleans itself by injecting fuel on the exhaust stroke when the filter is too plugged. then there is an afterburner effect in the exhaust that cleans the DPF. the DPF costs about 2K and is considered a wear item that will have to be baked and then replaced at around 100-150k. other than that they looked at what caused so many problems in the 6.0 and tried to fix them. it has 2 egr coolers. a different valve and 2 turbos. 1 fixed and 1 VGT. It is not a twin turbo it is a dual turbo. seems to get the boost levels in the needed range at all rpms. The body is meant to come off of the 08 and up trucks to make repairs easier.

Magic Medicine
02-15-2010, 01:50 PM
I'm ok with them. They have plenty of power. Hard to get good MPG out of them. The egr system is alot stronger. The only downfall is the DPF system (not much of a downfall but a downfall) the dpf cleans itself by injecting fuel on the exhaust stroke when the filter is too plugged. then there is an afterburner effect in the exhaust that cleans the DPF. the DPF costs about 2K and is considered a wear item that will have to be baked and then replaced at around 100-150k. other than that they looked at what caused so many problems in the 6.0 and tried to fix them. it has 2 egr coolers. a different valve and 2 turbos. 1 fixed and 1 VGT. It is not a twin turbo it is a dual turbo. seems to get the boost levels in the needed range at all rpms. The body is meant to come off of the 08 and up trucks to make repairs easier.

We haven't seen many issues with the 6.4 here

fixxxer22
02-15-2010, 05:02 PM
We haven't seen many issues with the 6.4 here

we see less than the 6.0 but when they fail they fail hard. i have replaced more 6.0 short and longblocks than 6.0 (i have replaced only 1 6.0) but all in all the 6.4 does pretty damn well.

Chris
02-15-2010, 06:05 PM
Fixer- where is the EGR cooler and what does removal/bypass entail?

fixxxer22
02-15-2010, 06:48 PM
Fixer- where is the EGR cooler and what does removal/bypass entail?

What engine do you have chris?

MarylandMark
02-15-2010, 09:13 PM
I would also complain of a long crank hot and see if you can get the updated STC fitting installed while under warranty.

Can you explain more how I would complain to them about this? 73K miles and bought it around 7/06- is it still under warranty? VIN is 1FTWW31P36ED41216 if that helps. Will the dealer want to do the work; like will they bill Ford and make money or groan over warranty work?

The only thing I've had done was a remote start w/timer for glow plugs, bought and installed at Best Buy. Would this void having the STC done?

TY for the help- wish you were in MD so I could give you some side work if you wanted it!

BUIZILLA
02-15-2010, 09:39 PM
fixx ... I think it would be pretty educational here if you could outline replacing the egr and the blockoff plate mod

i'm sure several owners would be thankful for this do_it_yourself info

fixxxer22
02-15-2010, 10:04 PM
Can you explain more how I would complain to them about this? 73K miles and bought it around 7/06- is it still under warranty? VIN is 1FTWW31P36ED41216 if that helps. Will the dealer want to do the work; like will they bill Ford and make money or groan over warranty work?

The only thing I've had done was a remote start w/timer for glow plugs, bought and installed at Best Buy. Would this void having the STC done?

TY for the help- wish you were in MD so I could give you some side work if you wanted it!

Ok, I pulled an Oasis check on your truck. You have never made a warranty claim! I would complain of a long crank when the truck has been sitting after it being hot. say you have let it sit for a couple hours and it cranks too long. Also say you had a buddy get the new STC fitting and it took care of it. You need this fitting. The problem is not if it is when... It will fail and you need to get the new tube on the back of the high pressure pump to correct what will happen in the future.

fixxxer22
02-15-2010, 10:07 PM
Ok, intake

fixxxer22
02-15-2010, 10:09 PM
i am going in reverse but it goes fan, stator, then intake.

Chris
02-15-2010, 10:15 PM
What engine do you have chris?

I have an 03, 04 and an 05. All 6 liter in Excursions.

fixxxer22
02-15-2010, 10:16 PM
Ok, The intake holds the egr cooler. I have many many many used egr coolers that can be plugged. you pay the ship you can have them. I have a talented machininst that machines a stainless plug for each end and welds them in. he charges me $75.00 a cooler. then i can ship i do not need a profit here.

ok, you remove the intake and the egr cooler is hooked to the intake. 3 bolts later.... you have a new cooler bolted to the intake. you install tyhe intake and go from there. the now plugged egr system will set a check engine lamp if you leave the valve plugged in and you have no exhaust modifications. if you have stock exhaust: install the blocked off cooler and unplug the egr valve. if you have exhaust: install the blocked off cooler and leave the valve plugged in (it really makes no difference. The benefit is that there is no longer a cooler with exhaust in it. they fail more than anything on a 6.0 and make coolant vent from the degas tank. deleting the cooler is the #1 thing on my list for a friend of mine with a 6.0

Also, you are viewing above ford shop manuals. I can send you anything on any ford 1995 and up the same way without penalty.

fixxxer22
02-15-2010, 10:35 PM
I have an 03, 04 and an 05. All 6 liter in Excursions.

the 03 will be different though. i can send you workshop manual instructions for sure.

MarylandMark
02-16-2010, 04:18 PM
Ok, I pulled an Oasis check on your truck. You have never made a warranty claim!

Yep, has been a good truck! Last 4 Fords have been GREAT products! This is the 1st truck I've keep more than 3 years or over 50K miles- finally bought the perfect one I guess! My last one was 04 F150 Lariant- got this one because I liked the leather better and bought a bigger boat. My GF has an Escape with 130K and it's been a great truck! I keep telling her to get a new one, but with a 3/4 mile drive to work she doesn't want to spend the money. Fine by me!

BUT- I spoke too soon!! Few weeks ago, 1st day of the blizzard; I cranked and cranked my truck but it wouldn't start. Killed the battery. Lesson learned- diesels don't work on sparks so once there is not enough power to crank it, STOP!! Charged the battery, cranked up and good to go.

Last week- hit my remote starter, didn't start but keep the lights, heater fan, etc on enough to drain the battery enough that it wouldn't start. Grrrr but blamed myself for letting it sit for 15 minutes without checking. Used a battery with jumper cables hooked up to it jump box thing and started right up

Last night- started my truck 3-4 times within 30 minutes while running errands store to store. Last stop, seemed like the battery was struggling but shut it off any way. Yep- no start 5 minutes later. Since my lessoned learned above, went home to get the jump box thing, started right up, drove 3 miles home and left it running for 40ish minutes to build the battery back up. Turned it off, turned it back on and started with 1 turnover.

This AM- tried remote start while walking out of the house. Didn't start but I was inside it under 1 minute and no start. Had to charge the battery for like 20 minutes before it would start, the little jump battery thing I have didn't have enough juice I guess. Well I left it on 60AMP jump vs 30AMP rapid charge and think I fried a diode. I drove with it in haul/tow mode to keep my RPM up hoping that would charge the battery back up- just a guess on my part.

I waited a few hours and then it started right up and I went to Auto Zone. The Auto Zone guy said the alternator is not putting out enough juice to charge the battery. Most of the time I start it, drive 18 miles and apparently that is enough to keep it charged enough. No start when he was done, so he jumped it and I went back to work, put it on the charger. Started right up when I went to leave and took it to the shop.

So- in the shop today to get checked out and an alternator installed. Well the mechanic is going to make sure that is the issue but sounds like that is the issue from the Auto Zone guy. Ford wanted $200 labor and $300 for the part. Auto Zone wanted $200 for the part and then a local garage wanted $250 to install. I would have taken it to Ford but they didn't have one in stock and couldn't get one for 2 days (parts person sick today) so I took it to the local guy right up the street. They are great up there, been around for 100ish years but the best part is I can walk home after dropping it off, which I did.

fixxxer22
02-16-2010, 06:25 PM
I would also make sure both batteries are up to par. you need to disconnect them and test them by themselves. If you have a dead cell in one battery it will also hinder the charging system and if the truck cannot maintain over 8volts with the glow plugs on and the starter engaged the FICM and PCM will not sync. The 6.0 charging system is a little on the weak side. but make sure you have good batteries. deka batteries has a 880cca replacement for $70.00 and i have them in my truck. just replace them ifin question because low voltage at initial start-up likes to eat $700.00 FICM modules.

Madpoodle
02-16-2010, 10:45 PM
Easy to swap the alternator. We have them rebuilt for about a hundred bucks locally.

I think the 6.0's are tough on batteries. I just replaced the 3rd set in mine at 97k miles.. Love warranties :) :)

fixxxer22
02-16-2010, 11:10 PM
:iagree:

fund razor
02-17-2010, 07:30 AM
so I took it to the local guy right up the street. They are great up there, been around for 100ish years but the best part is I can walk home after dropping it off, which I did.

Lucky. My "guy up the street" wouldn't touch my truck. He was afraid of the DuraMax and the sheer size of the thing scared him from lifting it.

Madpoodle
02-17-2010, 08:00 AM
Hey Fixx, question: Other day while towing, the infamous wrench light lit off. Truck did not go into limp home though, pulled just fine. Next AM, light off, no more issues since then. I didn't think that reset, is it supposed to?

fixxxer22
02-17-2010, 09:28 AM
If a fault is occouring at that time it will illuminate the warning lamp for that system. The wrench lamp is for the transmission and the throttle pedal assy. If you did not notice any difference in the shifting of the truck and your fluid and level is good i would assume you may have had a position sender get confused in the accelerator pedal. Can you have your continious codes pulled? we can get a little farther from there. I know an autozone will do it for free.

Dude! Sweet!
02-17-2010, 10:44 AM
Magic and dude: I would look into getting the egr deleted from your trucks. Send me your vin numbers and let me make sure you have the late build 6.0's and then I could hook you guys up with blocked up coolers and gasket sets.

Thanks man. Been buried at work so haven't been on much. I'll get off my butt and PM you the info. California is implementing a smog check with visual inspection on diesel trucks under 14,000# gvwr as of 1/1/10 so I have some concerns about whether I'm going to be able to get away with the EGR delete.

MarylandMark
02-17-2010, 01:31 PM
Local guy said my alternator is putting out what it should- said it varies from 11-14 volts depending on what the computer is calling for. Some thing about 1260 and my alternator is putting out 1290- like right above whatever level that is but that could also be the computer not calling for full power or some thing along those lines. I don't care what is going on, I just want it fixed so was kind of disinterested in what he was saying but guess I should have listened more.

He said he wasn't that familiar with diesels and to take it to the dealer but his hunch was it was the batteries.

$101 per battery and then 1/2 hour labor for what he had on the shelf- series 65.


At $70 each, should I just find some deka batteries and hope that was the problem?

fund razor
02-17-2010, 01:46 PM
He said he wasn't that familiar with diesels and to take it to the dealer
Yeah. I had to find a private diesel tech too. I'd be tempted to throw two batteries at it and see what happens. (Alternator being verified and all)

Knot 4 Me
02-17-2010, 02:27 PM
Local guy said my alternator is putting out what it should- said it varies from 11-14 volts depending on what the computer is calling for. Some thing about 1260 and my alternator is putting out 1290- like right above whatever level that is but that could also be the computer not calling for full power or some thing along those lines. I don't care what is going on, I just want it fixed so was kind of disinterested in what he was saying but guess I should have listened more.

He said he wasn't that familiar with diesels and to take it to the dealer but his hunch was it was the batteries.

$101 per battery and then 1/2 hour labor for what he had on the shelf- series 65.


At $70 each, should I just find some deka batteries and hope that was the problem?Have your batteries load tested separately. Most autoparts stores will do this for free. I have a local Interstate Battery place that I use. Don't just throw money/parts at it.

fixxxer22
02-17-2010, 02:29 PM
Local guy said my alternator is putting out what it should- said it varies from 11-14 volts depending on what the computer is calling for. Some thing about 1260 and my alternator is putting out 1290- like right above whatever level that is but that could also be the computer not calling for full power or some thing along those lines. I don't care what is going on, I just want it fixed so was kind of disinterested in what he was saying but guess I should have listened more.

He said he wasn't that familiar with diesels and to take it to the dealer but his hunch was it was the batteries.

$101 per battery and then 1/2 hour labor for what he had on the shelf- series 65.


At $70 each, should I just find some deka batteries and hope that was the problem?

I had the same issues on mine. It was just one bad battery. Depending on how cold it was the glow plugs would deplete the available voltage and amperage of the only working battery then you would go to crank and then not enough juice to make enough rpm to make high pressure oil, no tenought voltage for PCM and FICM sync, and not enough amperage to get the glow plugs hot enough. We have a deka batteries dealer local here and they are 880 cca replacements. I have them in my truck and have noticed a great difference in cranking speed both hot and cold starts.

I am glad that your technician is good enough to see that the system is charging. There is a possibility of a loose connection but i doubt it. The cahrging system on a 6.0 is stand alone with an internal voltage regulator. But one bad battery with a shedded cell can give erratic readings to the Alternator causing it not to produce what you are looking for. The way to test a for system is get the vehicle at full operating temp and then use a voltmeter. make sure it has been at least 5 minutes from when you started it (to make sure there is no glow plug command). Turn the headlights on and the blower on high and bring the engine rpm to 1000 and you should have no less than 13v at the meter.

I bet you got a bum battery just messin with you.

fixxxer22
02-17-2010, 02:31 PM
QUOTE=Knot 4 Me;441824]Have your batteries load tested separately. Most autoparts stores will do this for free. I have a local Interstate Battery place that I use. Don't just throw money/parts at it.[/QUOTE]
:iagree:

Battery stores have way better testing equipment and they need to be tested one at a time. just disconnect one positive lead.

ZBODaytona
02-17-2010, 03:26 PM
My 05 just came back from the shop. New heads with studs this time, and they put a new egr on. Just wish they would have deleted it for me instead. So not looking forward to removing stuff to do the delete. I am also running a banks inter cooler and new intake elbow as well, plus a sct programmer. Am I going to get yelled at for that?

I notice my batteries go about every three years. Replaced once in this truck and twice in my old 01 and once in my wifes dodge. Seems to always be about the three year mark, and basically just comes on.. Slow to start/ then no start. Usually replace before i get to the no start. I am lucky my buddy is a good diesel tech, and I do have a good dealership to go to if needed.

MarylandMark
02-17-2010, 05:22 PM
Great advice once again from SOS!!!!!

Went to Advance Auto. They tested each battery individually and came up with one battery being bad and the other going bad. The District Manage and Store Manager were both there. The tech was about to test the whole system as one until they came out, then they told the tech to unhook one for a valid test.

Anyway, came up with 600CCA and 650CCA, they are rated for 750CCA each.

Put meter on, took readings, then started truck with all accessories off, then rev up RPM, then let off RPM, then turn on high beams and fan high, then rev up again, then shut every thing down.

Takes battery voltage, drain when every thing off, amps, cranking amps, recharge rate, starter test, ripples in voltage and some other info- all with easy to read charts. Not sure if this pic will zoom but lot of info on there.

Local guy- $0 charge, refused the $20 I offered. Great guy and family, just does't do much diesel work but at least didn't shoot in the dark and charge me which is why I go to them. Just never had to with my diesel so didn't know they weren't very familiar with them.
Ford- tech never called me back and service lady was kind of a B when I called so kind of scrapped them. I didn't buy my truck from them for the same reason so kind of avoid them any way.
Advance Auto- $224 for 2 850CCA series 65 batteries installed in 20 minutes

Thanks SOS!!!!

fixxxer22
02-17-2010, 06:15 PM
Glad you found your problem cause! :cheers2:

Madpoodle
02-17-2010, 10:45 PM
If a fault is occouring at that time it will illuminate the warning lamp for that system. The wrench lamp is for the transmission and the throttle pedal assy. If you did not notice any difference in the shifting of the truck and your fluid and level is good i would assume you may have had a position sender get confused in the accelerator pedal. Can you have your continious codes pulled? we can get a little farther from there. I know an autozone will do it for free.

I'll see if they can pull those for me. My scanner reads stored coeds only, none show.

Thanks for the help :)

fixxxer22
02-17-2010, 11:20 PM
I'll see if they can pull those for me. My scanner reads stored coeds only, none show.

Thanks for the help :)

Are you using your programmer for a scanner or an actual scanner? And if a scanner what brand?

Madpoodle
02-18-2010, 06:43 AM
Basic scanner, Scan Gauge..

http://www.scangauge.com/

Hope my wife doesn't find out about those stored coeds :) :)

fixxxer22
02-18-2010, 10:54 AM
I think that is a basic global OBDII generic scanner. It may not have the ability to pull codes from the TCM which contains stored codes for the wrench lamp. But if the fault occoured only once and the veicle has been through 3 complete drive cycles it will erase the code. Then you are chasing a ghost.

Drive cycle - start as a cold vehicle and drive until full operating temp and speeds that simulate around town driving and breif highway speeds (like over 55mph)

Madpoodle
02-18-2010, 03:51 PM
oops, code be gone then, that was Monday night on the way back from the boatshow: leadfoot wanted to get home and collapse, with boat in tow and three booths worth of crap in it. Same load Tues AM, no wrench, none since.. Thanks for the info, if it does it again I'll head straight for a code reader.

fixxxer22
02-18-2010, 11:28 PM
oops, code be gone then, that was Monday night on the way back from the boatshow: leadfoot wanted to get home and collapse, with boat in tow and three booths worth of crap in it. Same load Tues AM, no wrench, none since.. Thanks for the info, if it does it again I'll head straight for a code reader.

Lets try and catch that fault the next time it happens (hopefully never again) But if it does we can go over some at home pinpoint testing and i can post anything you need out of a ford shop manual.

Madpoodle
02-21-2010, 08:42 PM
Thanks, I have the scanner in the truck, and worst case if it won't read it I'll leave it running until I get to a place that can :) :)

Dude! Sweet!
03-01-2010, 11:58 AM
Hey Fixxer, PM sent. Did it come through? Thanks.

fixxxer22
03-01-2010, 06:37 PM
Hey Fixxer, PM sent. Did it come through? Thanks.

I dont think so. I did have a bunch i may have accidentaly deleted it. Can you re-send?

Dude! Sweet!
03-03-2010, 11:31 AM
I dont think so. I did have a bunch i may have accidentaly deleted it. Can you re-send?

Thanks man. I'll resend.