Bilge Heater vs Fogging?

[Hard Charger]

My weatherizing consists of fuel treatment, topping off gas tanks, running the motor, changing oil, draining water from exhaust manifolds (the remaining system is closed) lower the drive and plugged in the ceramic bilge heater. I don't fog the motor. Is this ok since I use the bilge heater? Or am I causing motor damage?

[Ted]

The fog is normally used to lubricate the cylinder walls and prevent the formation of surface rust. There will be some moisture in the engine regardless of a heater or not so fogging will reduce the chance of cylinder wall rust and pitting.

[Mrhorsepower1]

Ted hit this on the head. It is always important to fog the engine for winterizing. I like the Rislone fogging oil personally.

[phragle]

and if you get a winterstorm big enough to knock out power.....

[DollaBill]

and be careful b/c insurance may not cover a loss with a 110v powered heater in a bilge if you have a problem. As a matter of fact, they WILL NOT cover your loss.

[phragle]

I dont know where your at, but those 110v heaters were never dsigned to run 24/7, and the insulating qualities of shrink wrap........ plus it will probably jack your eectric bill $100 a month...

[Velocity Vector]

I used a heater one year and I was constantly worried about it and checking on it, just wasn't worth the worrie...Probably the worst insurance there is to keep thousands of dollars from breaking or worse if she flames up. 12.00 for fogging is a lot better, cheaper and worrie free.

[Griff]

If all the water is out of the engines, then a bilge heater is a waste. I don't understand why you are running one. It has nothing to with fogging the cylinders. If the boat is outside where temps change a lot, then I would definately fog the engine. Changing temps create condensation. My boat is in a heated garage with a consistent temp and I don't fog my engines.

[Airpacker]

failure to fog a stored engine is a recipe for a now needed valve job. Open valves, air and temp variations will actually cause thermal air flow to take place in a stored engine. Warm, moist air will be drawn past cold, open valves and deposit water molecules on the valve faces. Non protected raw valve faces will form a surface rust or corrosion which, on initial start up can cause a valve to burn in an instant.

I have a pile of customer supplied burned valves collected from classic and muscle cars over the last couple of decades to prove it.

[rschap1]

My reasoning for fogging was always the open and partially opened valves. Cover with oil to prevent seat rust.

[Hard Charger]

I'm in a moderate climate, NC. At a minimum I start the boat and let it run 15-20 mins every few weeks. Also I'm known to boat on any given occasion. So the boat is not sitting for months on end. Those are my reasons (right, wrong, or indifferent) for not fully weatherizing it.

Based on all the responses I will start fogging. Its cheap, quick and provides better protection. Thanks for everyones input.

[Birdog]

I winterize, fog AND run a bilge heater..every year for 25-30 years....The heater keeps the condinsation from forming......Not insured ?...BS !

[DollaBill]

I winterize, fog AND run a bilge heater..every year for 25-30 years....The heater keeps the condinsation from forming......Not insured ?...BS !

thats correct. Your claim after a fire will be denied.

[Birdog]

thats correct. Your claim after a fire will be denied.

Soo...You can get blind stinking drunk, total your boat and insurance will pay..but, plug a 110v heater in and your out of luck ? I dont know where you heard this but its wrong

[drpete3]

I'm in a moderate climate, NC. At a minimum I start the boat and let it run 15-20 mins every few weeks. Also I'm known to boat on any given occasion. So the boat is not sitting for months on end. Those are my reasons (right, wrong, or indifferent) for not fully weatherizing it.

Based on all the responses I will start fogging. Its cheap, quick and provides better protection. Thanks for everyones input.Do you drain your manifolds after you run your engine every time?

[Hard Charger]

Yes I drain the manifold water after every use. Of course I only do this during the winter months.

[IrishTornado]

With today's ethanol fuels its now the opposite to what it used to be. Don't fill the tank leave it as empty as possible...Other thing I see you missed that I would've done is use Stabil in the fuel before running it for the last time. I use a mixture of stabil, 2 cycle oil and Mercury Injection cleaner in a 1 gallon can as I'm winterizing this is what I run the engines on then I pull off the "old" fuel filter when I'm ready to run it on antifreeze and pour half the gas out dump 2cycle in it and fire it up this gives the engines a good fogging. Sorta overkill, but I've never had a issue in 10yrs of doing it this way and if it ain't broke why fix it..

I'd put some premium fuel in your tank if you filled it with ethanol fuel in the spring the octane rating drops fast with this new fuel we're using.

[MikeyFIN]

Coming from somewhere where Ethanol has been used since day one because of the climate and have quite a lot of temp variations Irish I must say you are wrong.
Topping off the tank will reduce condensation compared to leaving it empty.
And that goes for diesels too...
Unless you really want water in your system fill it up all the time.

Never run a low tank if it´s cold either do you ?
I do not...

And the Additives are the first to leave the gas and has done that always, has nothing to do with the new fuels going south...it has always done it..
The urban legends just haven´t cought up with the fact before.

[MikeyFIN]

I would also have a hard time seeing an insurance company cover you running your boat drunk and being involved in an accident... and depending on the bilge heater... well... that also.


so Fog it and top your tank up...especially if you are using a heater there...

[Airpacker]

Coming from somewhere where Ethanol has been used since day one because of the climate and have quite a lot of temp variations Irish I must say you are wrong.
Topping off the tank will reduce condensation compared to leaving it empty.
And that goes for diesels too...
Unless you really want water in your system fill it up all the time.

Never run a low tank if it´s cold either do you ?
I do not...

And the Additives are the first to leave the gas and has done that always, has nothing to do with the new fuels going south...it has always done it..
The urban legends just haven´t cought up with the fact before.



Leaving ethanol laced fuel in your tanks all winter will definately leave you with lots of liquid garbage come next summer. They fuel with suffer severe degradation, water absorbtion and phase seperation( the alcohol seperates from the gasoline and mixes with the water ) in about 90 days with a relative humidity of 70 percent, never mind 6 months.

Pump the tanks dry.( recommended by most major marine manufacturers including Mercury ) Leave the gas caps open to aid in the fight against condensation. In spring, pump a couple gallons of new gas in and then back out to flush the bottom of the tank(s). Then, fill em with fresh fuel and add some fuel treatment like startron to absorb any condensate water.

[MikeyFIN]

Leaving ethanol laced fuel in your tanks all winter will definately leave you with lots of liquid garbage come next summer. They fuel with suffer severe degradation, water absorbtion and phase seperation( the alcohol seperates from the gasoline and mixes with the water ) in about 90 days with a relative humidity of 70 percent, never mind 6 months.

Pump the tanks dry.( recommended by most major marine manufacturers including Mercury ) Leave the gas caps open to aid in the fight against condensation. In spring, pump a couple gallons of new gas in and then back out to flush the bottom of the tank(s). Then, fill em with fresh fuel and add some fuel treatment like startron to absorb any condensate water.


Now I have to ask how crappy fuels you got overthere ????
No need to answer, I have a picture of it...
If you lessen the air in the tanks the risk of it going south gotta be less than leaving it open, the gas cap is not nearly as sufficient in venting condensation out than providing it.
Try snorkel diving with a 2+ foot snorkel...
And pump the fuel out with something else than an Electrically driven pump I hope.

Leaving the gas caps open and empty the tanks so they are full of vapor with an access, plus electricity around, not allowed here.
All you need to ignite everything is to switch any electrical thing on, ANY.
In worst case static will even succeed in igniting.
I wouldn´t personally want to be anywhere near despite what Merc Says and no boat or car will be stored inside any building like that that I have a say in.

And I thought a Molotov Cocktail would be effective but guess I learn new things everyday...

[DollaBill]

Soo...You can get blind stinking drunk, total your boat and insurance will pay..but, plug a 110v heater in and your out of luck ? I dont know where you heard this but its wrong

Where I heard this? LOL

My last marina I owned stored 220 boats inside in racks plus about 100 outside. Among other things I was the designated emergency service provider/partner for 4 major insurance carriers including Chubb and Travelers (the big boys in yacht coverage). Whenever there was a major loss (fire, sinking, etc) my crew got the call. I've handled over 100 claims over $1,000,000 in damage. Largest was 7 yachts that caught fire and burned to the water line about 10 years ago in Myrtle Beach. My direct contacts were the head guys at these carriers.

What I am stating is fact. Additionally, if a customer were to sneak a heater like this into a bilge and it started a fire and my facility sustained damage my claim would not be paid. Period.

Do what you want. But what I'm telling is the truth. Thats where I heard this...

[Airpacker]

Now I have to ask how crappy fuels you got overthere ????
No need to answer, I have a picture of it...
If you lessen the air in the tanks the risk of it going south gotta be less than leaving it open,
in days gone by yes BUT, ethanol will absorb ANY moisture it comes in contact with. 90 day shelf life.
And pump the fuel out with something else than an Electrically driven pump I hope.
what does the pumping in your car? Electric pump INSIDE the tank no?

Leaving the gas caps open and empty the tanks so they are full of vapor with an access, plus electricity around, not allowed here.

drained and left open, the vapour to air ratio will drop to a level that cannot support combustion in a very short period of time
All you need to ignite everything is to switch any electrical thing on, ANY.
untrue. see above.
In worst case static will even succeed in igniting.only IF the air / fuel ratio can support combustion
I wouldn´t personally want to be anywhere near despite what Merc Says and no boat or car will be stored inside any building like that that I have a say in.

And I thought a Molotov Cocktail would be effective but guess I learn new things everyday...

well then, you disagree with SAE engineers everywhere.

[Birdog]

I plugged my built in Battery charger today..110 volts..guess I'm not covered....

My friends live on their boat with factory electric heat..{In bilge also}..guess they are not covered....

I read my policy...It's not in there...

[Ted]

The issue with insurance has to do with non-marine rated appliances like heaters on the boat. A marine rated bilge heater or a marine rated battery charger are fine and if they caught the boat on fire it would be covered. But if an adjuster finds a home style heater in your burned out hull, you could be screwwwed.

[DollaBill]

have at it. I said my piece.

[Pismo10]

Empty tanks, then a full fresh load in the spring.

[rschap1]

More ethanol (full tank) is just a bigger spongue to absorb more H2O from the atmosphere. Tanks are vented, unlimited supply of moisture all winter long. Less fuel (empty tank) smaller spongue!!