PDA

View Full Version : 30 Velocity Tips/Info



Underdog88
12-21-2009, 09:00 PM
I have an 89 Regal Velocity. I've had it 4 yrs and still love it. I know you Velocity guys have had this hull in the past, and a few guys are/have raced them.

I have several hull related questions.

For starters what is under the bench seats? Anything...foam floatation?

There is no access to the bilge in the cuddy?

Finally on the inside of the hull there is what looks like a half piece of 4 inch PVC Pipe molded in the hull sides for stiffness? Wandering about what's in there before I drill and rig. The previous owner has already mounted my hydralic steering filter there.

Thanks in advance!
Mark

Airpacker
12-22-2009, 08:45 AM
That is a rigging tube. Meant for passing hoses, wires, whatever thru to support them and keep them off the bottom of the boat.

Waht power / drive set up are you planning?

Ted
12-22-2009, 09:06 AM
That is a rigging tube. Meant for passing hoses, wires, whatever thru to support them and keep them off the bottom of the boat.

Waht power / drive set up are you planning?


Only if it goes forward too. It butts up against the transom, never seen that before. If it goes forward also then you should find the other end up near the dash and you can run rigging in it.

Underdog88
12-22-2009, 09:30 AM
Yes it ends 6-8 inches before the rear seat bulkhead.
Thanks for the replys.

I have 454s bores 30 over. Merlin heads w/Bravo drives and Imco shortys

Velocity Vector
12-23-2009, 10:53 PM
Only if it goes forward too. It butts up against the transom, never seen that before. If it goes forward also then you should find the other end up near the dash and you can run rigging in it.

I agree, that looks sorta un stock to me too. I thought it was a wire/cable tube at first but now it looks like it's there for some other reason hopefully not structional reasons. It might be a big joint holder.

Underdog88
12-31-2009, 02:12 AM
That is a rigging tube. Meant for passing hoses, wires, whatever thru to support them and keep them off the bottom of the boat.

Waht power / drive set up are you planning?

I've since removed the dash and bolsters and found a similar tube in the Starboard gunnel with rigging thru it, so I guess you may be right:confused:

Chris
12-31-2009, 10:01 AM
First off, you need a set of offshore-style plate mounts. Those block mounts are useless and will lead to major problems. This was always the knock on Regal- cutting costs. At speed, the Vel30 likes a larger tab. The pad bottom is sensitive to trim height, tab position and prop selection. You don't want a ton of stern lift or it'll porpoise like mad. If you don't have external steering and want to go over 70, get it now. Again, the pad bottom can be twitchy. You take smalll tabs, too much trim, the wrong props and wiggly steering and take it over 80 and I can assure you that you'll be swimming.

Set up right the boats will fly. If you can get 450 hp out of those big blocks, you should see the 90's. I had mine to 113. You don't ever want to go 113 in a Velocity 30.

bigboat28
12-31-2009, 11:17 AM
Underdog where do you boat at?

speedfreak2030
01-02-2010, 12:54 AM
I did what you are doing now. check out this thread http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/velocity/215065-finally-done-splashed.html Took a while and some $$$ but rides great. I am still playing with props. I am getting 58mph now @3000rpm

Ratickle
01-02-2010, 09:30 AM
I had mine to 113. You don't ever want to go 113 in a Velocity 30.

:sifone: :) :sifone:

Underdog88
01-02-2010, 07:00 PM
Thanks for the replys guys. My daughter got married New years Eve :) The weeks has been a blur but, wonderful.

BB28- We are trailer boaters and try to splash at as many different ramps as we can. Our favorite by far has got to be Buckeye Lake. 13 bars on a 3k acre lake. We have lots of frends there Live Music from your swim pad, and dock/sleep at the docks. Check 30Velocity.com it's like our boat card and shows a lot of our road trips.

Andy Speed Freak... The boat looks GREAT! I'd love to pick your brain a while but, for now, What's under the cuddy couches? I might need those 30P props when you're done w/em:)

Chris- Solid advice I'm looking for...
>>>The pad bottom is sensitive to trim height, tab position and prop selection. You don't want a ton of stern lift or it'll porpoise like mad.

I have 280K planes I think, about 14 or so inches long? Thought of extending them while there off for PCoating, running stock B1 28s. I don't have much porpus but did w/labed 26s. In fact I think my 2" Imco Shortys are a bit to much unless you are on 1' or less but on the Lake Erie Mogels, I have a hard time keeping props in the water.

>>>If you don't have external steering and want to go over 70, get it now. Again, the pad bottom can be twitchy. You take smalll tabs, too much trim, the wrong props and wiggly steering and take it over 80 and I can assure you that you'll be swimming.

I have a great pic of the transom on another computer... I have Imco Dual Rams and helm. I'd like to find a second removable helm if anyone has one.
I can't get enough bow lift as it is. I'm hoping a few more HP will get it up on the pad better, otherwise I'm thinking 1" spacers. If I'm in the wind or the right water and up on the pad it's like surfing. I love it! The boat is happy there too. I'm not looking for 113 but mid 80s will be good.

>>>First off, you need a set of offshore-style plate mounts. Those block mounts are useless and will lead to major problems. This was always the knock on Regal- cutting costs. Set up right the boats will fly.

The first year up on Lake Erie with the East Side Crew we ran hard in some slop and bent all four mounts to the stringers. I built new ones with extra gussets and solved that. I did use all new pillow blocks but am aware of there weakness. I have looked at tieing all together with motor plates connected. I looked at offshore mounts at that time but wondered how you could set the alignment?

>>>If you can get 450 hp out of those big blocks, you should see the 90's. I had mine to 113. You don't ever want to go 113 in a Velocity 30.

I should be making that when I'm finished with the heads if not before, but I've barely touched 80 a few times to date. I'm guessing the 750 Ebrocks and Air Gap may be holding me back, but I also put more duration in the new cams. It hit the wall at 5-5200. OK w/that RPM but want to spin a set of 30s or more.


Thanks so much for the replys, your time and the info.
I just want to take my pleasure boat to a race or two and not totally destroy it. I know it's a potato chip of a hull and am looking at lake races. I've been racing stuff my whole life and just gave up 20yrs of motorcycle drag racing a couple years ago. The itch just won't go away... OPA's P-5 looks do-able.

Thanks
Mark

speedfreak2030
01-02-2010, 08:33 PM
Is that you doing a wheely on the TwistedImageCycles web site? If so your crazy or a great rider or both. I have been racing for a while, 50 now, got a turbo busa that I can stand on its ass at 100mph and come down when my balls shrink. Get some clothes on, crazy fukc! I have wiped out at only 25mph and removed slabs of skin. Anyways nice project, any questions call or email me. I live in Sarnia,Ontario Canada, lake Huron and Erie if you are ever down this way give me a call. speedfreak2030@hotmail.com or 519 344-1275 Andy...:sifone:

MOBILEMERCMAN
01-02-2010, 10:44 PM
In the 70 mph range you would be hard pressed to find a better handling boat that is more fun to operate. Once you start going over 80 you best be on your game. 100 you must be crazy.

I have spent countless hours in numerous 30's. Fun Fun!! One of my favorites. It may be sensitive to trim but it carries weight very well and turns great. Once you learn what it likes it is very predictable. Hp to Hp it will match up well against just about anything.

If this boat could talk it share its stories.....

50836

Velocity Vector
01-03-2010, 08:15 AM
in the 70 mph range you would be hard pressed to find a better handling boat that is more fun to operate. Once you start going over 80 you best be on your game. 100 you must be crazy.

I have spent countless hours in numerous 30's. Fun fun!! One of my favorites. It may be sensitive to trim but it carries weight very well and turns great. Once you learn what it likes it is very predictable. Hp to hp it will match up well against just about anything.

If this boat could talk it share its stories.....

50836

mmmm! I think Jim just called me crazy....

Chris
01-03-2010, 09:54 AM
Aligning the motors is easy. You set the plates to the engines, then clamp a pair of fresh pieces of aluminum angle to the stringers. Slide the alignment tool into the gimbal and with the plates c-clamped to the angles, find your spot. When the tool moves freely, drill the angles.

It does sound like your drives are high. Once you start going faster, you'll probabaly find you're running out of skeg. That and tabbing to compensate for wind will cause the rear to slide sideways. Dangerous at speed with that pad bottom.

Underdog88
01-03-2010, 11:53 AM
Here is what I got out back. The prop shafts are a bit higher than the pad. Can't really see in these pics tho...
Thanks again guys for the info.

Underdog88
01-03-2010, 12:08 PM
Speed Freak, I have be dying to get up to Lake St Clair! That is one of the races I want to at least watch or maybe enter next year. I'll look you up for sure. Also, what's under the settes/couches?

That was at a Yamaha Warrior gathering back when I raced for Yamaha. The owner swore you couldn't ride a wheelie on a Warrior. I road one and they all ran for their cameras, i at least put shoes on for the second one:) Never claimed to be very smart...
I had to beg them not to post it on their website as Yamaha would not have liked it much so this was what they used.

BTW Speedfreak, I have your contact info so if you want to edit it to keep the junk mail robots away...
Mark Underwood

bigboat28
01-04-2010, 11:51 AM
underdog what drives do you have?

Underdog88
01-04-2010, 05:20 PM
Only Bravos w,imco lowers. I am aware of their limitations.

I drag raced most of my 20yr career with no money and less than top knotch equipment. I do whatever I can w,what I have.

Not saying it's the right way, but better than not even trying .

Chris
01-04-2010, 05:25 PM
Nothing wrong with that, but you'd better save some of your budget for gimbal helmet upgrades. The stock Bravo isn't all that strong. Losing one at speed... Lemme give you the drag racing equivalent- like using a cast bellhousing on a front engine dragster and losing a clutch. They're your balls- care for them wisely ;)

Underdog88
01-04-2010, 06:38 PM
Thanks Chris for your info. Are they too weak for the 75mph class? On smoother water events? What's the upgrade? We just want to get our feet wet.

Chris
01-04-2010, 06:53 PM
They just have a habit of breaking- have been the cause of a handful of lawsuits as well. They have been upgraded over the years and the HP gimbal is heavier than the standard one- plus there have been revisions along the way. I'm not the Bravo expert here- someone can definitely tell you about the best upgrades.

I sure wouldn't want to race with a stock one- or put any real horsepower to it.

MOBILEMERCMAN
01-04-2010, 07:12 PM
It looks like in the pix you shared you have the plastic caps covering the trim pins {horizontal pivots}. Those pins are threaded in to the bellhousing {helmet}. They work loose. The first ones were really prone to failures. I recall a season I think it was '91 were we went through 3 sets of bellhousings. Merc eventually added a SS washer that the threaded pin would tighten against that helped greatly.

The Merc HP ring uses pins where the pin attaches to the gimble ring not threaded into the bellhousing. That is what I suggest you get. You need to buy a bellhousings. Or buy an entire transom assembly. Some times you can find them offered out at a reasonable price. There are after market ones as well.

This pix will show the standard and the HP type.
http://www.mercruiserparts.com/Show_pictures3.asp?dnbr=891749001&ivar=IMAGES/COMMON/21194.png&inbr=11406&bnbr=90&bdesc=Gimbal+Ring+and+Steering+Lever

MOBILEMERCMAN
01-04-2010, 07:15 PM
Grab your skeg and see if you can make it wiggle side to side. If it does most likely it is those pins that are loose.

Chris
01-04-2010, 07:51 PM
When the bushings wear, it causes the heads of those inserts to move, which pops the heads off of those tiny #10 retainer screws right off. You'll see old style Bravo helmets with multiple holes and the remains of the broken bolts left in them.

Underdog88
01-04-2010, 08:18 PM
Thanks again for the replys!

MMM>>>It looks like in the pix you shared you have the plastic caps covering the trim pins {horizontal pivots}. Those pins are threaded in to the bellhousing {helmet}. They work loose. The first ones were really prone to failures.

I don't know about the plastic caps... It does have the plugs on the steering shaft where someone did that trick before adding Hyd Steering. The caps on the horizontal pins are the stock trim limit switches??

>>>Grab your skeg and see if you can make it wiggle side to side.
The drives are off for the winter and hope to check them out too.

Chris>
I'm only talking about 500hp max but I understand what you are saying, I broke a lot of stuff drag racing people told me I needed to upgrade. I got no money... Just a soon to be retired fireman. I do know sponsorship and marketing, and have a few ideas and contacts for a little help.
What I have learned is you have to be out doing it before you can ask for any help.

Thanks again!
Mark

MOBILEMERCMAN
01-04-2010, 08:24 PM
Yes, I was calling the stock trim limit and gauge senders plastic caps.

Underdog88
01-04-2010, 08:32 PM
I'll check them out MMM