compound/wax, when?

[boomer35]

My boat is a 2000, its a 30' cigarette. the paint is in really good shape... my question is can i apply a compound to the boat, then wax, and not hurt anything......

if not, what should i do, there is no oxidation or anything, i just feel like it needs something a little more than wax to bring the "pop" back

[glassdave]

You could use a light compound at this point to bring it back. I wouldnt use anything to aggressive till it needed it. Check with MarineClean Donnie and see what they have. I've had great luck with their stuff.

Is the boat paint or gel? It will make a difference in what products to use.

[boomer35]

Thanks Dave, i was hoping you'd chime in

paint

[boomer35]

what do you think of 3m compound?

[Griff]

3M makes a lot of great compounds. You need to make sure you get the right one for your job. You could probably just use some Meguiar's Paint Cleaner with a foam compounding pad.

[boomer35]

so dave what should i use?

[glassdave]

is it gel or paint? if paint i would use one of 3M's products and as Griff said choosing the right product is important. I use Pefect it 6064 for light polishing, if you need somthing that cuts more use 6085(either with foam pad). For gel use Marinecleans oxidation remover followed by the waterless polish. I prefer wool pads for gel.

[boomer35]

the boat is paint, and i wouldnt say i need any MAJOR cutting, for a 2000 the paint is in great shape.... Just something to bring back the "kick", and the i planned to also wax it with the 3m Wax

[boomer35]

Dave- if you happen to chime in, let me know the best applicator pad to apply the suggested compound

[boomer35]

im thinking perfect it?

[glassdave]

yep the 6064 Perfect it should work great on that, I also use the the 3M white foam pad. My boat has a painted deck and to tell you the truth i only wax it maybe once or twice a year. It gets treacherous to walk on after a fresh coat. I just keep it clean and spritz it with McGuires spray detailer every time i'm out with it.

[boomer35]

Dave- Sorry to keep bothering you, and thank you so much for the advice... but what is the difference with perfect it 6064 and perfect it 6060

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/producte/10001/-1/10001/271017/377%20710/0/perfect%20it%206064/Primary%20Search/mode%20matchallpartial/0/0?N=377%20710&Ne=0&Ntt=perfect%20it%206064&Ntk=Primary%20Search&Ntx=mode%20matchallpartial&Nao=0&Ns=0&keyword=perfect%20it%206064&isLTokenURL=true&storeNum=163&subdeptNum=549&classNum=549

http://www.detailsupplyplaza.com/3m6064-perfect-it3000swirlmarkremover-quart.aspx

[boomer35]

from what little i can gather, the 6064 isnt really a compound, more of a step after the 6060, more like a polish?

[glassdave]

correct its a follow up after compound, I use 6085 to buff freshly painted stuff and follow up with 6064. 6060 is a pretty course cutting compound and the 6064 is a final polish. If you have slight oxidation or light scratches use the 6085, it leaves a nice finish that you can also go straight to wax over (smells nice to :D).

The only time i use 6060 is if i have to buff something out of older cured finishes like sand sctraches or if i let a fresh paint job cure to long before i color sand it.

[boomer35]

with the 6064, can i still wax right after?

[boomer35]

im overanalyzing this entirely too much..... but ive got the time to do it right so i want to make sure to pick the best product.... what i have is the boat pictured above, there isnt really any oxidation, there are some parts that are just duller than other... it needs something more than wax, but not a full blown compound

[VetteLT193]

have you tried a clay bar yet? or do you want to use a buffing wheel on it?

[Griff]

I've used the 6062 with good results. Not as harsh as the 6060, but still a cutting compound. Designed to remove up 1500 grit sand scratches with a foam pad. I used it and waxed right after without using a swirl remover first. BTW, that West Marine price is way expensive. Try to find an autobody supply place. I paid about $35 for the same size bottle.

[glassdave]

im overanalyzing this entirely too much..... but ive got the time to do it right so i want to make sure to pick the best product.... what i have is the boat pictured above, there isnt really any oxidation, there are some parts that are just duller than other... it needs something more than wax, but not a full blown compound

you should probably use the 6085 then, sounds like the condition of you paint falls right between 6064 and 6085. If it was mine thats what i would use, 85 is not THAT course and i'd hate to see ya waste time and not have any results to speak of. I hit the Donzi with 85 and go right to wax all the time. 64 is a pretty fine polish, heck you could follow up the 85 with it if you wanted to.

[boomer35]

ALright, last question Dave, im going with the 6085, but which applicator pad should i use?

[glassdave]

you use all of these with a buffer, no applicator pad. I just squirt a bit on and buff away using a white 3M foam waffle pad and electric buffer. None of these will have any real affect if used only by hand. They are not applied like wax if thats what you meant by applicator pad. They are "buffed off" a surface not "applied to".

[boomer35]

i just ment which waffle pad (again over anaylaizing), but i know there are 3-4 different pads, based on color, i assume each is a different texture or hardness...

when applying the 6085, will i use just one pad and just apply until it rubs in, or use a few pads and apply more like a typical compound where you apply, haze, remove

[glassdave]

sorry, just clarifying. It was the word applicator that threw me :D

I tend to like the white 05737 pad from 3M because it has a little raised collar to protect paint from the edge of the backing pad. Use the compound sparsely and let the buffer do the work. Medium speed to start and as it clears itself turn up the R's a bit. It should buff its self dry and if the pad gets clogged up its a good sign you are using to to much. The pads can be cleaned with a blow gun if necessary.


generally the white ones are for compound and the gray ones are for glaze (in 3m anyway)

[boomer35]

this one with the ruffles? or the one shaped more like a frisbee?

http://www.autogeek.net/3m-compounding-foam-pad.html

[glassdave]

this one with the ruffles? or the one shaped more like a frisbee?

http://www.autogeek.net/3m-compounding-foam-pad.html

yea i tend to like that one(05737) because it's flat. The radiused one i find is better for cars.

[boomer35]

alright, well im going with the full fledged schooling now (to which i owe you a beer if we ever meet).... but what would be the best wax to follow up with, my plan is to use
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/producte/10001/-1/10001/5026/377%20710/0/3m%20wax/Primary%20Search/mode%20matchallpartial/0/0?N=377%20710&Ne=0&Ntt=3m%20wax&Ntk=Primary%20Search&Ntx=mode%20matchallpartial&Nao=0&Ns=0&keyword=3m%20wax&isLTokenURL=true&storeNum=163&subdeptNum=166&classNum=166

and would i apply the wax with the same buffer and pad? or by hand??

[glassdave]

no actually the wax is done by hand, I sometimes use a large orbital polisher with a terry cloth bonnet to put wax on as well though. That 3M cleaner wax is for gel surfaces, just use a good automotive wax. McGuires Gold Class is pretty good.

[boomer35]

Dave- one last question, when i apply the 6085, so i just rub it in until its gone like you would finess it, or is it an apply then remove deal?